Many restaurants offer a multicourse set tasting menu featuring a limited range (or no choice at all) of dishes for each course. It allows the diner to try a larger range of foods and the chef to show off their creativity in a more sustainable way. Some also offer a wine pairing list, a glass of different wine to match each course. Others suggest a wine to pair with each dish.

Done well, this can really enhance the occasion. A good sommelier will work closely with the chef to select wines that have the right balance and taste for each dish. Most sommeliers relish the opportunity to show off their ability to source interesting wines, and this gives them a chance to open them up. It offers the diner an opportunity to try something new and exciting without having to buy a whole bottle. If you are feeling adventurous, I see Ely Wine Bar in Dublin is offering a Secret Pairing, only revealing the wine when it is served.

Typically, you will start with a glass of sparkling wine, followed by a lighter white or red, gradually working up to more full-bodied wines, finishing with a dessert wine. In one restaurant recently I enjoyed a glass of sparkling crémant de Bourgogne, a dry German riesling, a frappato from Sicily, a white Beaujolais and a sweet wine from the Loire. The wine and food combinations worked well, and I was able to enjoy five different wines, including several that were new to me. The cost was not prohibitive – about €70 – and it gave me a night off, as I didn’t have to read through a lengthy wine list to find a reasonably priced wine that would suit all palates.

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There are a few potential downsides. Some restaurants charge an extortionate premium for their wine pairings. If there are five wines in the pairing list, divide the cost by five to give you a rough idea of the price per glass. Others see it as an opportunity to offload dodgy bottles that are a little past their best. If you have conservative tastes and only drink a limited number of favourite wines, it may not be for you. However, most of the time I find it adds to the occasion and allows you to concentrate on enjoying the company.