The vine is a very sensitive plant and any small change in temperature can have a huge impact on the wine; in fact, this is already happening.
Climate change has been affecting vineyards and wine for decades and is likely to have an even greater impact in the near future. Over the past 20 years, temperatures have risen slightly in most vineyards around the world, including in famous regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. It might not seem like much, but this makes a huge difference. Many growers now harvest their grapes two to three weeks earlier to avoid over-ripe raisined grapes. Even so, higher sugar levels have led to more alcoholic wines. Thirty years ago, Bordeaux producers struggled to harvest-ripen grapes and wines were typically 12.5-13.5 per cent alcohol. Now many are 14-15 per cent, which changes the taste and style of the wine. Bordeaux is not the only region and France is not the only country suffering either.
[ When in doubt should I order the second-cheapest wine on the wine list?Opens in new window ]
Growers can do several things to mitigate climate change. It sounds drastic but they can move their vineyards to higher ground, where temperatures are usually lower. I have met growers in several regions who have started this process but buying land and working out the most suitable varieties can take years. Catalan producer Torres began planting at higher altitudes and revived ancient grape varieties. Another option is to grow different, later-ripening or more drought-resistant varieties. Bordeaux recently permitted farmers to plant Touriga Nacional, a Portuguese grape, on a trial basis.
Another possible solution is to change the training system used. Warmer regions historically grew their vines “en vaso” or bush-trained without any trellising. These vines need less water and provide shade for grapes that can suffer from sunburn. But they are not suitable for some varieties and give lower yields. Some growers are allowing a larger canopy of green leaves on their previously neatly trimmed rows of vines. This provides protection from the sun for grapes. Less talked about are the dangers posed by irregular extreme weather patterns that can include fires (in California and elsewhere), sudden floods, late frosts, hailstorms or a lack of water.
We are likely to see a move to cooler regions and countries. Some regions that were abandoned a century ago are being replanted. And locations such as Britain, Sweden, Denmark, the Netherlands and others now have a nascent wine industry, and Ireland is not far behind.
