Organic wines are made from grapes grown without the use of synthetic herbicides, fertilisers, fungicides or pesticides. Instead, growers use cover crops, predators, manure and other alternatives. The use of copper sulphate is permitted to control mildew. Under EU regulations introduced in 2012, organic wines must have up to 35 per cent less sulphur than conventional wines. Producers are also allowed to use yeast nutrients and fining agents as well as processes such as pasteurisation and thermovinification.
Biodynamic farming, invented by Rudolph Steiner, follows similar principles but in a stricter form. It also has a philosophical element with specific works being carried out only during certain phases of the moon. It sounds a little crazy, but many great wines are produced biodynamically.
Organic and biodynamic wines cost more to produce and are generally a little more expensive. Not all organic or biodynamic wines taste great but many do, possibly because if you look after your soil, you will produce better grapes, and better grapes usually produce better wine. Some consumers believe that they are less likely to suffer a hangover from organic wine. Sadly there is no evidence for this. Nor will it prevent red wine headache, which some consumers get after a glass of red wine. It seems more likely that this is caused by histamines in red wine.
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Only about 2 per cent of Europe’s vineyards are organic. It is much more difficult to produce organic and biodynamic wines in cooler, wetter regions where rot is a real problem. In Sicily where the weather is sunnier and drier, 34 per cent of all viticulture is organic.
Wines that are certified organic will usually have a symbol on the label, but it costs money and requires lots of form-filling to gain certification so many organic producers simply don’t bother.
Sustainability is a wider term that is open to various interpretations. Sustainable viticulture follows practices that promote the health of vineyards while minimising environmental impact. Some, but not all, are organic. Sustainability can also take into account practices in the winery and other environmental consequences including the entire supply chain from vineyard to consumer. Several countries such as New Zealand, South Africa and Chile have their own sustainability certifications. The International Wineries for Climate Action is a group of worldwide producers whose aim is to become 100 per cent carbon neutral.
Many consumers assume that organic wines are vegetarian and vegan, but this is not the case. Wine producers can still use isinglass (derived from fish bladders), and gelatin (animal-based) which are neither vegetarian nor vegan to filter or fine their wines. Others use egg whites and casein which are not vegan. Some argue that the wines are vegan since these are processing aids and only minute traces remain, but many producers use bentonite (an absorbing clay) to filter their wines instead. Some wines will have a vegan or vegetarian symbol on the back label, but others do not.
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