In many ways Chile is the ideal place to make wine. The vines are free from the many diseases that afflict other countries. The weather is dependably warm, dry and sunny, and water is available from the nearby Andes. Yet many consumers see Chile solely as a source of inexpensive wine. Certainly, Chile can offer great value for money, but it offers a lot more too.
It produces very good versions of all the international grape varieties, including sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet and merlot. Add in sémillon, and a few local specialities such as carménère, pais, moscatel, and wine lovers are not short of options.
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Larger companies such as Santa Rita, Concha y Toro and Errazuriz produce very high-quality wines, usually Bordeaux blends based on cabernet sauvignon, and usually from the Maipo Valley close to Santiago.
But today we celebrate the variety that Chile has to offer with four wines made from lesser-known varieties and in lesser-known regions of Chile.
The family-owned company of de Martino is responsible for some of the most exciting wines in Chile. I am a huge fan of its wines from Itata, a region that has some of the oldest vines in the world. Torres was one of the first foreign producers to buy vineyards in Chile. The Carignan below is from vines planted in the 1950s. Chilean Paz Donoso of Bodega Donbear is on a mission to convert Ireland to the high-quality wines of her country. The Petit Verdot below is from one of several estates that she imports.
Leyda Coastal Vineyards Neblina Riesling 2021
12.5%, €15.95 down from €18.95
Floral aromas, vivid racy green apple fruits with a touch of orange peel. A good wine to drink with sushi or grilled mackerel.
From O’Briens
De Martino Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault 2022
13%, €23
Utterly charming with vivid, light, juicy elderberry and blackcurrant fruits and fine-grained tannins. Try it with antipasti or roast chicken. Great value for money too.
From Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Martins, D3; Donnybrook Fair; Matson’s, Cork; world Wide Wines, Waterford; Redmonds D6; Kellys, Clontarf
Torres Cordillera de los Andes 2021 Vigno Carignan, Maule
14%, €25
Lovely concentrated dark fruits with sinewy well-integrated tannins and a long mineral finish. Try it with roast pork or chilli sin carne.
From Bradley’s, Cork; Pinto Wines, D9
Globo Vultur Petit Verdot 2020, Colchagua Valley
13.5%, €29.95
Rich plush dark fruits with a touch of spice and a smooth finish. This wine goes well with lamb cutlets or a rich bean stew.
From The Corkscrew, D2; Bodegasdonbear.com
