There is much more to Rioja than Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva

The trade journals have been full of tales of woe for Rioja, one of our favourite wine regions. Production has increased hugely over the past two decades, and while sales have increased too, there is still a huge excess of wine. Keep an eye out for some bargains in the near future.

Telmo Rodriguez, one of the most influential forces for good in Spanish wine over the past 30 years, was in town recently, arguing that Rioja needs to rethink its wines. “We need to decrease production. The wines are being made in the cellar; we were never talking about the growers and their beautiful vineyards. This must change.” He has started working closely with local growers, producing single village or single vineyard wines that express the terroir in each location. For the moment, his excellent atypical Remulleri Rioja Reserva 2015 (€37-€40), featured here before, is available from independents.

There is much more to Rioja than Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. In recent years, younger producers have been reinventing the region with a series of excellent wines with an emphasis on fruit and provenance. In addition, the Rioja D.O. has been expanded to include sparkling and rosado (rosé) wines, as well as red and white.

Here, this week, we have four very different styles of wine, all Rioja. Three are made by innovative producers trying to change our view of Rioja.

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El Circulo Rioja Joven 2021, Pagos del Rey

13%; €9.20

A lightly fruity unoaked Rioja with elegant plums and dark cherries. By itself or with a platter of tapas.

From: Dunnes Stores

Lopez de Haro Rioja Blanco 2022

12.5%; €15

Vibrant juicy melon fruits with a touch of hazelnut. This would make a lovely aperitif or you could try it with garlicky prawns.

From: Neighbourhood Wine; Wineonline.ie; Green Man Wines, D6; La Touche, Greystones; Martins, D3.

Bodegas Moraza Rioja Rosado 2022

12%; €24

A delicious rosé with subtle raspberry and red cherry fruits, lively acidity and a dry finish. Drink alongside leafy salads, grilled lemon sole, or enjoy as a sophisticated aperitif.

From: Sheridans; Lilith, D7; Roundwood Stores; MacCurtain, Cork; The Fumbally; wineonline.ie.

Bodegas Badiola Rioja Villabuena V1BN4 2018

14%; €40

Joyous vibrant dark ripe fruits with a refreshing acidity and lovely pure long finish. A star. One to savour alongside mezze, lamb cutlets, firm cheeses or roast chicken.

From: Wineonline.ie; Sweeney’s, D3; Martin’s, D3; Avoca; Elm Epicurean, D4; Redmonds, D6.