Easter is upon us and this year I’m going for a twist on the traditional roast lamb dinner followed by a pudding that is high on the comfort scale. Easter is one of the great occasions for a celebratory dinner, falling when some great ingredients are all in season at the same time.
Leg of lamb is the popular option for most people, but here the main course showcases a rack of lamb in place of leg. This cut is slightly more expensive with less yield. But the repayment is lovely soft pink meat, where the flavour and melting fat is worth the investment. It also cooks in a fraction of the time and you can have your butcher do most of the prep work.
The key is to crisp up the fat side in the pan in order to melt out some of the excess fat. I then cook the rack in a low oven until it is cooked to a nice medium heading towards medium well on the edges. I would not recommend serving lamb anything below medium, because it can be chewy and the fat hard to break down. Once the rack is cooked through, it’s important to rest it for a few minutes before brushing with Dijon mustard and rolling in a vibrant herb crust. Many recipes call for cooking the lamb in the breadcrumbs but I prefer the freshness of the green herbs in every bite. Make sure to use Panko for this method, though - fresh breadcrumbs will just get stodgy.
Carrots are my accompaniment of choice this year, inspired by a recent trip to the ever-reliable and delicious Mister S restaurant on Camden Street in Dublin. Among a delightful array of small plates and grilled meats, the carrot side dish was a standout. They had been grilled over coals until just soft and dressed in spices and oil, served with labneh, or thick yoghurt, with lots of acidity. It is so often the simple things that have most impact. I’ve recreated them here with a handy spiced butter that can be kept in the fridge for weeks. (Note the method for hanging yoghurt to get that thick texture. I use this one a lot.) Served up with the lamb, this is a Sunday showstopper worthy of the beautiful April weather.
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For dessert: a dish that has gone slightly out of fashion for some reason. Steamed puddings are so simple to make - standard cooktop steamer delivers a beautifully soft texture from edge to edge. I have flavoured mine with marmalade to keep things homely. An all-in-one caramel sauce is the perfect garnish and a handy recipe to have up your sleeve. The only thing you need here are metal dariole moulds, and make sure to grease them heavily so the puddings pop out. Have a delicous Easter weekend.
Recipe: Herb-crusted rack of lamb with spiced carrots and labneh
Recipe: Steamed marmalade pudding with ginger and orange caramel sauce
