JP McMahon: This cut of lamb is an unfairly neglected delicacy

This is a versatile, succulent joint that’s cheap compared to a rack of lamb

Whatever you want to call it, lamb breast, or belly, is a deliciously succulent cut of meat that is often neglected by both chefs and domestic cooks. Because of its rich fat content, it needs to be cooked low and slow. It works well with spicy sauces such as harissa or nutty sauces such as romesco.

But lamb belly also confits well and it can be braised in myriad spices and liquids, from red wine to whiskey. Because it is so underused, it is a relatively cheaper cut, compared with rack of lamb. Spring lamb belly will cost you a bit more, yet it will be delicious.

High-end restaurants often combine lamb belly as part of a lamb dish. I recall chopping thyme and rosemary while spending a few days in Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London many years ago, for their braised lamb belly which went alongside a rack of lamb and some baby vegetables.

Cooking with cider still feels less important than cooking with wine, but we have excellent artisan ciders in Ireland, so give them a go when cooking lamb, chicken or fish. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

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How to cook lamb belly in cider

Lay your lamb belly flat, skin side down, and sprinkle with fine sea salt and chopped rosemary and thyme. Roll it up and tie with some twine. Do the same with a second belly and you’ll have enough to serve four. Oil the outside and season also with salt and pepper. Fry the rolled belly in oil until nicely browned. Transfer to a casserole dish and add one quartered onion, a chopped carrot, a diced celeriac and a bay leaf. Pour 500ml of cider over the lamb and then cover with lamb or chicken stock.

Cover the dish and braise in a 160-degree oven for three hours. Remove the belly and the vegetables from the liquid and carve the meat into nice pieces. Reduce the sauce a little. Place the vegetables in a large serving bowl with the lamb on top. Pour over the sauce and then garnish with some fresh watercress.