Gooseberries can be quite divisive, the Marmite of the berry world. As their name suggests, they were traditionally used to make a sauce to accompany goose. The tartness of the berries cuts through the fattiness of goose meat. Similarly, the pairing of gooseberry with mackerel is so natural as both are in season at the same time and the berry is ideal with oily fish.
In France, they are called groseille à maquereau which translates as mackerel berries. I love using gooseberries in savoury recipes, although gooseberry tarts and crumbles are delicious too. Try simmering the berries in a little elderflower cordial, then ripple them through a mix of softly whipped cream and yoghurt once cooled. It makes the most elegant end-of-summer dessert.
They grow so well here and I have so many memories of picking gooseberries in my parents’ garden, a very prickly job that we all tried to avoid when we were children. Picking was followed by an afternoon of topping and tailing them before they were simmered down and made into jam – that we then refused to eat. Now, of course, fully grown with children of our own, we are aware of how much work goes into each little jam jar. We all adore our mother’s gooseberry jam and love it on scones or brown bread.
Gooseberries are a perfect substitute for tomatillos that are not widely available here in Ireland. They’re suitable for recipes like this salsa that requires the sharpness and texture of tomatillos. Tomatillos are Mexican and look like green tomatoes with a papery husk wrapped around them, similar to their cousin, the cape gooseberry. They’re a bit more acidic and less sweet than unripe tomatoes, although the purple and red varieties are a little sweeter. Here the bold flavours of lime, coriander and jalapeno all balance nicely with the gooseberry.
Taste the sauce once it’s blended up as it may need a little more sugar, depending on the tartness of the berries. I usually reserve coriander stalks for recipes like this green sauce. It helps that they are more robust than the leaves and they’re still packed full of flavour. This salsa is delicious with tortilla chips too. It’s a lovely seasonal sauce and a surprising way to use the versatile little gooseberry.
Recipe: Gooseberry and jalapeno salsa with mackerel
