Holding the Rhône: Four excellent white wines from a region famous for reds

Mention the Rhône Valley and most wine drinkers will immediately think of powerful warming red wines, epitomised by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of the most famous names of all. There is certainly no shortage of high-octane reds, but the region also produces more elegant red wines, some delicious rosés with real character, and a range of excellent white wines that are overlooked by many.

I recently returned from a trip to the Rhône, where I tasted numerous exciting white wines. Sadly, the range available in this country is limited. Several importers told me they had tried and failed to find sufficient interest here. But there are still some very good white wines worth investigating.

The Rhône is divided into two distinct sectors, and both northern and southern sub-regions produce great white wines. In the north, Viognier makes up 100 per cent of Condrieu, while other appellations such as Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Saint Péray work with blends of Marsanne and Roussanne, two grapes with real potential.

In the southern sector, producers have a greater choice, with Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all permitted. Most of the wines are blends.

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So how can a warm region like the Rhône produce such good white wines? Partly, it is down to the grape varieties, but mainly to location. The La Lumière featured here comes from vines grown in higher, and therefore cooler, vineyards in the northern Gard region. Over the other side of the river, areas such as the Ventoux and Luberon also benefit from higher altitudes. Vines grown on the 400m-high slopes of Valréas are cooled by Alpine breezes. In addition to climate, grape varieties such as Ugni Blanc and Grenache Blanc can provide freshness and acidity to a blend.

Most of the better white wines from both north and south have a liveliness that provides a welcome contrast to the textured rich fruit. Those fruits tend towards stone fruits such as apricots, peaches and nectarines, the best having a very seductive succulence. If you enjoy Chardonnay, I would certainly try them out. They make fantastic food wines, with richer fish dishes, chicken and pork, as well as cheesy cauliflower and root vegetable gratins.

As well as the wines featured here, look out for the Saint-Joseph 2019 from Stephane Montez (€40, Searsons, Blackrock Cellar, The Vintry); the Séguret, Domaine de l’Amauve (€22, Whelehans) and the Château Pesquié Terrasses Blanc (€18.50, JNWine). The well-known names of the Rhône such as Chapoutier, Jaboulet, Guigal and Yves Cuilleron all produce very good white wines, Chapoutier in particular, but the range available here in Ireland is limited. Searsons, JNWine and Whelehans and Le Caveau are welcome exceptions.

Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2020
14.5%, €16-19
A rich and powerful white wine with voluptuous textured peaches and apricots. It demands food – try it with chicken in a creamy sauce or cauliflower cheese.
From Joyce's supermarket, joycesupermarket.ie: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, jusdevine.ie; JJ O'Driscoll, Ballinlough, jjodriscoll.ie; Redmonds, D6, redmonds.ie; winesoftheworld.ie; Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown, Dublin, whelehanswines.ie.

Domaine de Fondrèche Ventoux 2020
13%, €23
An enticing floral nose; a vivid streak of cleansing acidity balanced nicely by succulent peach and pear fruits. Try this with black sole or brill in a creamy white wine sauce. 
From Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, jusdevine.ie; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Searsons, Monkstown, searsons.com; Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown, whelehanswines.ie; Deveney's, D14, deveneys.ie; Drinkstore, D7, drinkstore.ie; Green Man Wines, D6, greenmanwines.ie.

Clos Bellane 2019, Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas, Organic
13.5%, €25
Captivating wine with subtle honeysuckle aromas, creamy peach fruits with a touch of orange peel, and a long dry finish. Drink alongside creamy mushroom and chicken dishes. 
From Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, elywinebar.ie.

Atelier des Sources La Lumière 2020, Côtes du Rhône
14%, €30
This has delicious textured mouth-watering stone fruits; nectarines and peaches with a core of citrus acidity. Perfect with scallops or lighter chicken dishes.
From Green Man Wines, D6, greenmanwines.ie; Morton's, D6, mortons.ie; Neighbourhood Wine, D4, Dún Laoghaire, Bray, neighbourhoodwine.ie; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Clontarf Wines, D3, Clontarfwines.ie; Searsons, Monkstown, searsons.com; stationtostationwine.ie; siyps.com; La Touche, Greystones, latouchewines4u.ie; Lennox Street Grocer, D8, lennoxstreet.ie; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, elywinebar.ie; Fallon & Byrne, D2, fallonandbyrne.com