At one stage producers in Bordeaux, the Loire, and other cooler regions struggled to bring their wine up to 12.5 per cent alcohol by volume. Some routinely added sugar to bring alcohol levels up to a respectable level. Now, strengths of 14 per cent or more are normal as better viticulture and rising temperatures produce grapes with higher sugar levels. Great if you enjoy warm, smooth, full-bodied reds, less so if you prefer lighter wines. White wines are less of a problem as there is a wide selection from 12-13 per cent, but it can be difficult to find lower-alcohol red wines.
There seems to be a divergence in Irish tastes, with a certain segment of the market (usually male) preferring big powerful red wines, with soft tannins and often some residual sugar. For these consumers 14.5 per cent or more is desirable as it brings the right combination of richness and oomph. At the same time, another group prefer lighter, more elegant red wines that are lower in alcohol.
At one stage, these consumers could simply buy Valpolicella, Beaujolais, Loire Valley reds, or Chilean merlot safe in the knowledge that they would come in at 12.5 per cent. Nowadays a closer look at the label is required, remembering that a tolerance of 0.5 per cent either way is allowed. You could try checking out drinkwellireland.com, which offers slower-alcohol and lower-calorie wines, but for this article I simply dropped into my local wine shops, including an O’Briens, and rang Wines Direct to find a selection of lighter reds to try.
Syrah Collines Rhodaniennes 2022 Cave Saint-Désirat
12%, €15.45
Light black pepper and savoury dark plum fruits with a spicy finish. A good all-rounder to serve with cold meats, cheese or grilled red meats. From O’Briens
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Pinot Noir Le Cerisier Begude 2024, IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude
13%, 15.99 down from €19.99
I have featured it before but at €15.99 (until August 31st) this is an outstanding bargain. Light, delicious, flowing fresh raspberry and redcurrant fruits. Drink lightly chilled solo or with tuna, pork and chicken dishes.
From O’Briens
On s’en Fish 2024, Domaine Gardiés, IGP Cotes Catalanes
13%, €23
Delightful juicy fresh light wine belying its southern origins. Supple refreshing raspberry and redcurrant fruits. Serve cool with or without food.
From Wines Direct.ie, Mullingar, Athlone.
Samt & Seide 2022, Dorli Muhr, Carnuntum, Austria
13%, €35
Samt and Seide translates as velvet and silk, which accurately describes the wine. Seductive, smooth and refined, with just ripe concentrated dark cherry fruits. Try it with pork, veal and chicken dishes.
From Greenman Wines, D6; Fíon Eile, D7; Sweeneys, D3; Lilith, D7; Pinto Wines, D3; Blackrock Cellar; Jus de Vin, Portmarnock; Brindle, D8; 64 Wine, Glasthule Deveney’s, D14.
