How tempranillo became Spain’s favourite grape

You won’t see the name on the label very often, but the tempranillo grape is the most widely planted Spanish grape variety, used to make some of the country’s most famous wines including Rioja and Ribera del Duero.

A few nerdy facts first. Recent reports place it as the third most planted grape in the world, almost all of it in Spain, and the rest probably in neighbouring Portugal where it is known as tinta roriz. In various parts of Spain, it is known as tinto fino, tinto del país, tinto de toro, ull de llebre and cencibel. The name means “little early one”, a reference to tempranillo ripening earlier than other Spanish varieties. It can produce very high-quality wines but for some reason, it has never really been planted outside of the Iberian Peninsula.

In terms of flavour, it all depends on where you grow it. In warmer climates such as Ribera del Duero or Toro the wines are typically full-bodied and powerful with ripe dark fruits. In Rioja and other cooler climes, the wines tend to be more elegant with red fruits, good acidity and medium tannins. Either way, tempranillo can age gracefully while being very drinkable when young.

I have deliberately chosen three unoaked, and one lightly oaked, wines to show the wonderful fresh fruit of the tempranillo grape. Locally, they would drink young unoaked wine with menestra, a vegetable stew, and more full-bodied wines with lamb, pork or traditional warming bean stews.

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Ermita Rioja Joven 2023

14%, €11.99

Full-bodied and rich with concentrated dark fruits, and a smooth finish. Try it with roast lamb or a substantial bean stew.

From Lidl

Abadia de Acón 2023, Ribero del Duero

14.5%, €17.50-€18

A delicious fresh supple wine bursting with voluptuous dark plum fruits and an easy finish. Serve it alongside grilled lamb chops.

From The Wicklow Wine Co; Baggot Street Wines; Thenudewineco.ie; Clontarf Wines; D-Six

Bardos Viñedos del Altura 2020, Ribera del Duero

15%, €22

A delicious wine packed with smooth plush swarthy fruits, a lick of dark chocolate and firm but ripe tannins on the finish. Velvet in an iron fist. Try it with spicy grilled red meats, a posh burger, or some ribs.

From Bradleys, Cork; Donnybrook Fair; Wineonline.ie