We love Rioja in this country, especially Rioja Reserva, but we tend to concentrate our purchases exclusively on the red wines. Many Irish consumers are unaware that Rioja also comes in white and rosé versions – and sparkling too.
Around 90 per cent of production is still red, but interest in the white wines has been growing over the last decade.
The most widely planted traditional white grape variety is viura, which had a reputation for producing wines that were inexpensive and fresh but lacking in flavour. Cutting yields and ageing the wine in oak barrels, as done by a few traditional producers such as Marques de Murrieta and Lopez de Heredia, added layers of interesting flavours.
Then a few more inquisitive souls began giving a little more care and attention to their viura, with spectacular results. Other producers followed suit and we now have a range of very good white Rioja available to us. Look out for Placet from Palacios Remondo, Remulleri, Allende, Conde de Valdemar, Muga and Bhilar.
In recent years growers have been permitted to grow sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, but the majority sensibly stayed with viura, as well as some malvasia and garnacha blanca. Other varieties such as tempranillo blanco, and maturana blanca were rescued from near extinction.
[ Ten of John Wilson’s favourite white wines at decent pricesOpens in new window ]
Some of the wines have been aged in oak barricas, which can work very well with viura; others are unoaked. Either way, the white versions of Rioja are certainly worth trying out.
Baron Amarillo Rioja Blanco N/V
13%, €9.99
Fresh, with plump exotic fruits and a nicely rounded finish. By itself or with tapas.
From Aldi
Hacienda López de Haro Blanco 2023
12.5%, €15.95
This has lovely, succulent rich tropical fruits, with a refreshing acidity and a subtle toastiness. Great value for money.
From Peacock’s, Swords; Martins, D3; Kitty Kiernan’s, D9; Green Man, D6; Wineonline.ie;
O’Driscolls, Ballinlough.
Las Parcelas Rioja Blanco, Bideona
13%, €27
White flower aromas, delicate with concentrated stone fruits, an attractive subtle oiliness and a very long dry mineral finish. Superb wine.
From Mitchell & Son, D1, D2, and Sandycove; BaRossa, Sandymount; WineOnline.ie; Lilith, D7; Nelly’s, D9.
Abel Mendoza Viura Rioja 2022
14.5%, €40
Aromas of fresh fennel and white flowers with sumptuous creamy nectarines offset by fine acidity, lemon zest and a light toasty note. Keep a few years or drink now with scallops, lobster or something equally rich.
From wineonline.ie
