Four Californian wines to try – including one the critics love to hate

John Wilson: Napa Valley Cabernets are among the finest in the world. Cooler coastal regions produce excellent chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah

The 4th July is next Thursday, and so a brief look at American wine. All 50 states of the United States now produce wine (although Alaskans must import grape juice to make theirs), making it the fifth largest producer in the world. California is responsible for 84 per cent of all US wine.

I don’t feature Californian wine very often. It’s not that I don’t like them. Napa Valley Cabernets are among the finest in the world. Cooler coastal regions produce excellent chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. Zinfandel, when grown in the right place, can produce sensationally good wines too. The problem is one of price; most are very expensive, although the rest of the world seems to be catching up. California does produce plenty of inexpensive easy-drinking wines, usually quite sweet. It is the middle ground, wines that cost €20-40, that we don’t find very often.

JNwine.com probably has the best range of Californian wines including Au Bon Climat, Schafer, Tyler, Cline and Ridge, always one of my favourites. Stationtostationwine.ie is another good source with some exquisite pinot, chardonnay and other wines, as is Whelehan’s Wines in Loughlinstown, Co Dublin. Winesoftheworld.ie has a decent range at just under €20.

Apothic Red Wine is a controversial wine, often looked down on by critics but hugely successful with the public. The reason? It has around 16 grams of residual sugar per litre, around three heaped tablespoons. It wouldn’t be my style of wine, but I wouldn’t criticise anyone who drinks it.

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Apothic Red 2021, California

13.5%, €12

Rich sweet jammy dark fruits with vanilla, milk chocolate, and a medium-dry finish. Enjoy with barbecued sticky ribs, a burger or chocolate brownies. Widely available, including Tesco, Dunnes, SuperValu, Molloys.

Truchard Carneros Chardonnay 2021, California

14.1%, €47.95

Medium-bodied with luscious pineapple and peach fruits, plenty of lemon zest and nicely judged toasty new oak. Try it with poached salmon and a buttery sauce, roast butternut squash or lobster. From Bradleys, Cork; Terroirs, D4; Martin’s, D3.

Ridge Vineyards Geyserville 2020, Alexander Valley, California

14.1%, €55-60

Sumptuous ripe cassis and plum fruits with subtle spice and a long smooth finish. Wonderful wine. Enjoy with barbecued beef. From La Touche, Greystones; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Sweeneys, D3; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Terroirs, Donnybrook.

Hirsch Bohan-Dillon Pinot Noir 2021, Sonoma Coast, California

13%, €69

Very aromatic with vibrant juicy ripe raspberry and strawberry fruits, a savoury note and light tannins on the finish. Lovely wine. From Mitchell’s, Glasthule; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Redmonds, D6; Pinto Wines, D9; Wineonline.ie