Four wines from a Spanish region that has been transformed

During the Celtic Tiger years, I went on a number of trips to southeast Spain, barely lingering in the coastal resorts before heading inland to the hot mountainous hinterland. At that time the area produced mind-boggling amounts of inexpensive jug wine, sold simply as vino de mesa or table wine.

Rumour had it some of these wines found their way into the lighter, less generous wines produced farther north. There were some quality-minded producers, but as the wines became more ambitious, the levels of alcohol, tannin and new oak increased, so that many of them were unbalanced and unpleasant to drink.

The trips came to an end with the financial crisis, but since then the region appears to have transformed itself. Producers now pick earlier, or have moved to higher altitudes and cooler climates, where they are able to make far lighter, more attractive wines.

Over the past year my favourite lockdown red wines have been Vermell from Celler del Roure (€17) and Clos Lojen (€16) from Bodegas Ponce, both available from independents. All of the wines from these two producers are worth seeking out, but I have featured them before, so this week I have gone for alternatives.

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Some of the grape varieties are less well-known, such as the Verdil used in the Neleman featured here, and the Doradilla, which makes up part of the blend for La Raspa. I am not sure either will ever compete with Sauvignon Blanc for popularity on the world stage, but they do produce good, refreshing white wines.

Other grape varieties are better-known. Monastrell aka Mourvèdre is planted in the south of France, including Bandol and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Australia, too, but it originated in Spain, where it is widely grown in Jumilla, Yecla and Valencia. It can make excellent wines, although some can be earthy, robust and firmly tannic, requiring a few years’ bottle age. Bobal is another local speciality that we have covered here before (including the inexpensive Toro Loco wines from Aldi), which many believe has real potential. O’Briens has a range of wines from Luzon, and independents stock the well-made wines from Castaño in Yecla and Casa Castillo in Jumilla.

The two white wines featured here have a freshness and vibrancy that would suggest cool climate. One is from Malaga, in deepest sunny Andalusia, but made from north-facing vines growing at 600m to preserve aroma and freshness. The reds are supple and rounded, with ripe but never jammy fruit. They are perfect for warm weather drinking.

Neleman Organic Vineyards Viognier Verdil 2020, Valencia
12%, €14
Lightly aromatic with subtle nectarine fruits, vibrant acidity and a crisp, dry finish. Drink this with lighter seafood dishes, such as grilled plaice with lemon and parsley butter. 
From Wines Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie.

Soplo 2018, Rafael Cambra, Valencia (Organic)
13.5%, €15
An utterly delicious fragrant red wine with bouncy bright red fruits, an earthy touch and a smooth, easy finish. Great value for money. Try it with all manner of meaty pasta dishes and roast chicken or pork. 
From A Taste of Spain, D1; 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Baggot Street Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; Clontarf Wines, D3, clontarfwines.ie; D-Six Wines, D6, peggykellys.ie; La Touche, Greystones, latouchewines4u.ie; Lilliput Stores, D7, lilliputstores.com; Margadh, Howth, margadhfoodandwine.ie; thenudewineco.ie.

La Raspa 2019, Sierra de Malaga, Viñedos Verticales 
13%, €18.50
Seductive white flower aromas, gentle succulent citrus and pears with a lively acidity. A very moreish wine. Perfect summer drinking by itself or with some fishy tapas before dinner.
From A Taste of Spain, D1; 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Baggot Street Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; This is It, Ennistymon, thisisitennisytmon.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; Bradleys Off-licence, Cork, bradleysofflicence.ie; Loose Canon, D2, loosecanon.ie; Margadh, Howth, margadhfoodandwine.ie.

Pepe Mendoza Paisaje Mediterraneo, Alicante 2019
14%, €23.95
A beautiful, medium-bodied wine brimming with delicious pure damson and blackcurrant fruits; ripe and supple with good length. Try it with arroz con pollo or vegetarian Spanish rice. 
From Avoca, Ballsbridge & Rathcoole, avoca.com; Baggot Street Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Deveney's, D14, deveneys.ie; D-Six Wines, D6, peggykellys.ie; McHughs, D5, mchughs.ie; Mitchell & Son, D1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie.