Raising the bar on Bardolino

I AM TOLD WE are guilty of a certain wine snobbery in this country. We consume large quantities of Valpolicella, but turn our noses up at its near neighbour Bardolino. Valpolicella has come a long way from the wine that many wine drinkers of a certain age will remember, not always fondly, from 1970s drinks parties. Back then most Valpol was thin and acidic. It was also very cheap, which may explain its popularity with hosts.

Modern Valpolicella is a different animal, medium-bodied, smooth, and bursting with lovely dark cherry fruits. However, the change in style has been accompanied by an increase in alcohol. Most now come in at 13-13.5% alcohol. I suspect a little of the richer Ripassa style may be blended in to some wines. I am on a constant search for wines that are lower in alcohol. I like to drink a decent amount of wine without exceeding my personal limit too early in the evening. I also enjoy red wines that offer a little freshness, and good Bardolino has a clean, refreshing bite.

Bardolino is made from exactly the same grape mix as Valpolicella, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. But the grapes are grown in a slightly cooler climate, and so the wine will never have quite the body or richness of Valpolicella, and, to my knowledge, no winemaker has yet attempted to make a Ripassa or Amarone style wine with Bardolino. It is also usually a euro or two cheaper to buy.

There is a rosé version, called Chiaretto, which is consumed in vast quantities by the hordes of tourists who descend on Lake Garda every year. Possibly because of this, until recently there has been little incentive to produce good quality wines. Even the red wine can be almost rosé-like in character. But given the right producer, Bardolino can be a joyful glass of wine – light and fresh, with vibrant summery fruits.

Typically it has a slightly bitter almond character that gives it an intriguing bite.

In recent years, some producers have gone down the Beaujolais Nouveau route, producing Novello, wine made by carbonic maceration for release a few months after the harvest. I have yet to see a bottle of Novello in this country, but it is not difficult to find good Bardolino. Like Beaujolais, it should be served lightly chilled, and makes a great match for antipasti and charcuterie – the acidity a perfect foil for anything fatty.

There is a place for wines like this. In fact, I suspect many of you would be pleasantly surprised if you venture out to buy a bottle. Bardolino is possibly better suited to summer, but given its price and easy drinking style, I am happy to quaff it throughout the year.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Zenato Bardolino 2008, 12%, €11.25Delicious juicy, ripe summer fruits that sing in the glass. Light and supple, this is dangerously easy to drink. Serve cool rather than chilled, by itself or with salads and charcuterie. Stockists: The Lord Mayor, Swords: Sheils', Lower Dorset Street, Dublin 1; Nectar, Sandyford; McHugh's Kilbarrack, Dublin 5; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; McLoughlin's, Westport; Next Door, Raheen, Limerick; Next Door, Waterford, The Wine Centre, Kilkenny

Corte Giara Bardolino 2009, 12.5%, €11.99From the négociant arm of top Veneto producer Allegrini, this has a little more alcohol, but carries it well, with its very attractive black cherry fruits, refreshing acidity and smooth finish. Stockists: Michael's, Deerpark, Co Dublin; Red Island, Skerries; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2; The Lord Mayor, Swords; Deveney's, Dundrum, Dublin 14

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico 2008, 12.5%, €12.39Unusually, this has some Merlot in the blend. The most fragrant nose of the group, with very stylish rounded plum fruits and excellent length. Drink with light chicken salads and cold meats. Stockist: O'Briens branches

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico 'Tachetto' 2009, 12.5%, €16.99O'Briens list no less than three Bardolino at the moment, all from Guerrieri Rizzardi, including this single vineyard wine. Super smooth, silky blackcurrant fruits, with great length and real finesse. Delicious wine to drink on its own, or with antipasti, chicken and veal. Stockist: O'Briens branches

BEER OF THE WEEK

Innis Gunn Original, 6.6%, €1.89 (for a 33cl bottle)Aged in Bourbon oak barrels, this is a beer with a difference. It has aromas and flavours of vanilla from the oak, as well as some toasty nutty almost caramel-like elements on the palate. Not for everyone, but I enjoyed it.

BEER NEWS

Redmond’s in Ranelagh is offering four 50cl bottles for €10 on a range of more than 50 English, Scottish and Welsh beers for the month of September. This is an ideal opportunity to try out a few excellent ales.