Back to basics: The secret to perfect foundation

Why do complexion products suddenly misbehave as the season shifts and the weather changes?

Aimee Connolly is the Dublin-based founder of the runaway Irish beauty brand success Sculpted by Aimee Connolly, but she's also a make-up artist and precisely the woman we need this week. When I tackle a basic beauty question in the first column of every month, I always turn to an expert for help. This week, as we head forth into September, the beauty issue that seems to be troubling readers is the tendency of complexion products to suddenly misbehave as the season shifts and the weather changes. "Why", one reader messaged me eloquently on Instagram, capturing the frustration of so many, "has my trusty foundation suddenly gone to sh*te!?"

Connolly confirms that this isn’t just in our heads –“with the heating on, drop in temperature, stronger winds and so on, the change can play havoc on our skin. If your skin change from oily to dry or perhaps goes through a period of dehydration, your routine needs to flex to suit this and that can sometimes go beyond your skincare into your make-up applied on top.”

“That’s all well and good”, I reply, firing a concealer that used to look beautiful but now makes me look as though I hang out in attics, howling prophetically about deaths to come and the hardship of the banshee lifestyle. “But how do I choose a new foundation for my mutinous new skin?”

Connolly recommends considering the very basics – decide on the coverage you feel most comfortable in, as well as the shade. Whether you wear tan or are paler in winter, ensure the match is exact. “A compatible finish for your skin as it is right now is important –  if you have an oily skin type avoid a foundation that’s oil-based if you are conscious of shine. If you have quite a dry skin be careful of matte finishes – particularly those that contain talc.”

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Once you have the right foundation, Connolly says it’s all about prep and application. “It’s important to have worked on your base prior to applying your foundation. On a dry skin, making sure the skin is supple and well hydrated for make-up will always achieve a better end result. Products such as your hydrating serum, smoothing primer, illuminating base will all add to the dewy finish which is gorgeous on a dryer skin type. I like to apply foundation with a brush. I start with a small amount and then add as I need to, or else I pair with concealer. I don’t believe that anyone needs full coverage everywhere on their face, so I prefer to layer lightly and work up the coverage with concealer instead.”

Using concealer rather than foundation for coverage where needed will keep skin looking fresh rather than cakey. “Foundation is the key element to add colour and evenness to the complexion, but concealer can be used for extra coverage or brightness.”

Sculpted Velvet Veil (€24 at sculptedybyaimee.com)
Vieve Skin Nova Primer (€27 at vieve.co.uk)
Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Foundation (newly reformulated, €55 at Brown Thomas)
Anastasia Beverly Hills Magic Touch Concealer (€32 at cultbeauty.co.uk)

Product of the Week

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