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Berliner takeaway review: The Berlin-style Gemüse kebab has arrived in Dublin

This sourdough puff stuffed with grilled meat, vegetables and sauces can be prepared with up to 14 ingredients if you wish

Berliner takeaway: tasty and very substantial Berlin-style Gemüse kebabs.
Berliner Kebab
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Address: Unit 3, Triangular Building, Richmond Street, Dublin 2, D02 E938
Telephone: 087 035 3030
Cuisine: Turkish
Website: https://www.instagram.com/berlinerkebabdublin/?hl=enOpens in new window
Cost: €€

What’s on offer?

Mert Börke, an Italian-Turkish gastronomy and culinary arts graduate from Yeditepe University in Istanbul, who has worked in the hospitality industry for 15 years, teamed up with Kazım Ersöz, a Turkish industrial engineer, and Yağız Karaca, a former head chef for the Turkish government, to open Berliner in July, a kebab takeaway on Richmond Street. The trio were already in business together as the sole distributor of Hamido Baklava in Ireland, the same bakery that supplies Nusret, the world-renowned steakhouse of “Salt Bae” fame.

Karaca identified that there was an opportunity in Dublin for the Berlin-style Gemüse Kebab, in a market that is heavily influenced by Iranian, Iraqi, and to some extent, Indian cuisine. They make their Turkish-style döners with 100 per cent lamb and, for the chicken, with an even split of thigh and breast meat. The lamb is Irish, so too is the chicken, but it is not free-range as is all too often the case with takeaways and indeed restaurants.

The cocktail sauce, garlic sauce, spicy kebab sauce, tzatziki, muhammara, and slaw are all made in-house; the cheese sauce is bought in, ready-made. Börke points out that their kebab is not a copy of the classic Gemüse kebab; it’s an improved variation. Instead of the usual four-component sandwich, they prepare their sandwich with up to 14 ingredients if you wish. The bread is a special sourdough puff.

For now, just the kebabs and falafel are available, the barbecue menu with Adana kebab will be coming on stream soon.

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Berliner takeaway: the toasted sourdough puff for the Berliner is filled like a bowl, layered with chicken, salad, a mix of fried aubergine, bell pepper, courgette and carrot, and laced with sauces.

What did we order?

A Berliner kebab, Turkish lamb döner and falafel.

How was the service?

Pleasant and chatty.

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Was the food nice?

The toasted sourdough puff for the Berliner is filled like a bowl, layered with chicken, salad, a mix of fried aubergine, bell pepper, courgette and carrot, and laced with sauces. It is tasty and very substantial. So too is the lamb döner, which is mildly spiced.

The falafels are very good, flattened into large discs and come in pitta bread with a refreshing tzatziki and salad. They are crispy on the outside and have a fluffy interior.

What about the packaging?

Paper packaging is recyclable if clean.

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What did it cost?

€35.70 for dinner for three people: Berliner kebab, €11.90; Turkish lamb döner, €13.90; and falafel, €9.90.

Where does it deliver?

Open daily, 2pm-2am. Takeaway, eat-in and delivery available with Deliveroo and Just Eat within a 5km radius.

Would I order it again?

While this would not be my top choice for kebabs, (I’m a big fan of Passion 4 Food and Reyna), I would happily order them again.

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave, a contributor to The Irish Times, writes a weekly restaurant column