Less alcohol, more fruit: Austrian wine blaufränkisch is back

Fancy a glass of kékrankos, limberger, lemberger or gamé? Or maybe a drop of frankovka, nagyburgundy or blaufräufrankisch? They are all local names for the same grape, widely grown across central Europe, including the Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Slovakia and Slovenia. Usually called Blaufränkisch, it has recently swung back into fashion, largely thanks to the efforts of the Austrians.

The wines typically are medium bodied with good acidity and fresh dark fruits, sometimes with a spicy element, and medium tannins. Inexpensive versions are light and refreshing. In the right hands and from the right soils, they can be spectacularly good. Single vineyard wines such as Neckenmarkt from Moric, Goldberg from Prieler, or Spitzerberg from Dorli Muhr are world-class wines. Heimann in Hungary (featured here) is also outstanding. Rarely over 13.5%, and usually unoaked, they are perfect for those who prefer wines with fresh fruit and less alcohol.

In this country we are most likely to come across Austrian blaufränkisch, usually from the Burgenland region close to the Hungarian border. “Blaufränkisch is in the DNA of Burgenland,” Georg Prieler told me on a recent visit. He, along with the other producers featured here, have transformed the image of blaufränkisch.

Today, three great wines from masters of the grape, plus a more affordable Zweigelt, which is a cross between blaufränkisch and St Laurent. If you buy online, Wines Direct has the delicious pure and fruity Wellanschitz Blaufränkisch for €18.90.

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M&S Found Zweigelt 2021, Niederosterreich

13%, €13

Lively Black Forest fruits with black pepper and an earthy touch. Perfect with chicken, pork and root vegetable gratins. From Marks & Spencer

Moric Blaufränkisch 2020, Burgenland, Austria

12.5%, €25

Utterly seductive subtle spicy fresh red fruits with light tannins on the finish. Good with most white meats, charcuterie and firm cheeses. From Grapevine, Dalkey; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey

Blaufränkisch Johanneshöhe Oggau 2019 Georg Prieler, Austria (Organic)

13%, €27

Fresh with silky dark cherry and blackberry fruits and an attractive grippy finish. Delightful wine. From Blackrock Cellar; Ely, Maynooth; The Corkscrew D2; Greenman, D6W; Pinto, D9; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; Martin’s, D3

Heimann & Sons, Bati Kereszt, Kékfrankos, Hungary 2018

13.5%, €35-€37

Smooth, elegant plum and damson fruits with a lovely freshness, plenty of well-integrated tannins and a lengthy finish. Try it with roast pork, grilled lamb chops or spicy roasted red peppers. From 64Wine, Glasthule; The Corkscrew, D2; Blackrock Cellar; Clontarf Wines; Pinto, D9; Pete’s Provisions, D5; Leonard’s, Trim; The Lamplight, Clifden; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; Neighbourhood Wine