The best of New Zealand: four wines with zesty and earthy flavours to savour

These days, more than 70 per cent of all wine produced in New Zealand comes from Marlborough, a region on the northern tip of the South Island, across the Cook Strait from Wellington. Blessed with free-draining soils and a long, cool growing season, Marlborough produces vibrant aromatic sauvignon bursting with lime zest and ripe tropical fruit. We are very fond of it in this country, and we are not alone.

However, there is more to New Zealand than Marlborough and more to Marlborough than sauvignon blanc. North Canterbury lies to the north of Christchurch and includes Waipara, a region that will be familiar to some. With a similar but slightly cooler climate to Marlborough and an interesting mix of soils, small boutique producers make some seriously good wines here, usually from sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir or riesling.

Gimblett Gravels is a unique vine-growing region on the North Island. Part of Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand’s oldest, warmest and second-largest wine region, it was formed as recently as 1867, when a huge earthquake changed the course of the Ngaruroro river, leaving deep gravel soils that provide perfect drainage for vines. Hawke’s Bay produces about 90 per cent of New Zealand’s cabernet, merlot and syrah, and Gimblett Gravels is famous for all of these, as well as some excellent chardonnay.

Martinborough, named after Irish man James Martin, was first planted with pinot noir in the 1980s. The wines are among the best of New Zealand with plenty of structure, and subtle savoury earthy fruits. It is now part of Wairarapa, along with surrounding regions with similar soils. Look out for too for three other stars of the region, Ata Rangi (from independent wine shops), Escarpment (Searsons) and Dry River (Ely, Maynooth).

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Freeman’s Bay New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022

12.5%, €8.49

Plenty of acidity to counter the rich tropical fruits. Drink it by itself or with plain grilled fish or herby salads.

From Aldi

Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Organic

13.5%, €25

Lifted fresh herb aromas, excellent precise lime zest acidity provides focus for the peach fruits. Drink it by itself, with goat’s cheese salads or herby fish dishes.

From Curiouswines.ie

Smith & Sheth Cru Heretunga Syrah 2019, Gimblett Gravels.

13.5%, €37

Delightful harmonious rich cassis with black pepper, spice and toasted nuts. Finishes with a real flourish. Try it with roast or grilled lamb, firm cheese or mushroom dishes.

From Curiouswines.ie

Decibel Martinborough Pinot Noir 2019

13%, €38

This has a lovely core of svelte dark cherries and cranberries given added complexity by notes of cumin and toast. Drink with roast duck or a mushroom risotto.

From Ely Maynooth; La Touche, Greystones; Killruddery, Bray; Redmonds, Ranelagh