Time to start thinking about Christmas wines

‘Tis the season. At this time of year most importers publish new lists and hold trade tastings to grab the attention of our retailers and restaurants for the all-important Christmas season. The multiples, many of whom source their wines directly, have also been busy preparing for the busiest period of the year.

This year I suspect some importers are being a little cautious in their purchasing. It takes a certain amount of courage to bring in new and exciting wines in the current economic climate. Having said that, our importers certainly do not lack enthusiasm so there is no shortage of interesting wines.

Fitou is one of the oldest appellations in the Languedoc in the sunny south of France. The region is best known for its warming inexpensive blends made from local red grapes, usually produced by one of several co-operatives. The wine below is one such example.

The B by Fonbadet is a very keenly priced Bordeaux that will definitely have you reaching for that second glass. Made by Château Fonbadet in Pauillac from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is unashamedly modern in style, with soft, round, ripe fruits.

If you have had mixed experiences with natural or low intervention wines, the two below are well worth trying. They are not cheap, but both have a wonderful purity of fruit and real character. I have tasted the wines of Herbert Zillinger twice this year and have been blown away on both occasions. His Grüner Veltliners, from the less fashionable wine region of Weinviertel, are inspiring. The only addition is a small addition of SO2 at bottling; the wines have real finesse and great beauty.

The Mosse Chenin below is also natural. The vineyards have been organically farmed since 1999. The family-owned estate produces a range of red and white wines from the Anjou region in the Loire valley. The Chenin Blanc below, made from younger vines, has real depth and fruit-filled complexity.