A few weeks ago, we visited the south of Spain for our first family holiday. Travelling outside of the traditional school holidays, we were treated to quieter streets, easy restaurant reservations and just enough sun for a pasty-skinned ginger man. Days were spent wheeling the buggy around the swimming pool in a helpless effort to encourage sleep while the evenings repaid the effort with ample time to cook and sample some local vino. A model professional, I had my food-writing hat on at all times. Two things that stood out? One. The supermarkets in Spain are designed to reflect traditional farmers’ markets, as opposed to the more industrial fare we are used to here. Two. Everything tastes better when you’re sitting on a beach in the sun.
Regarding the former, a spin around the market delivered fresh langoustines, shellfish stock, Iberico pork cheeks and secreto, charcuterie for days; stunning oranges and ripened mangos, sweet tomatoes – the list goes on and on. It was a joy. While it helps that much of this produce is grown locally on the southern coast of Spain, the passion and care was plain to see. Cooking is easy when the produce is this good. Most evenings started with jamon, fried padron peppers crusted in salt, crusty bread and spicy olive oil. Jammy tomatoes were sliced and served with some salt and oregano leaves. Shellfish was steamed in wine. Meat, generally iberico pork, was grilled and served up with simple potatoes and pimento. Life was good.
This week’s column draws inspiration from that trip. First up is a highly controversial dish whose recipe changes from street to street, never mind region. I will not claim to hold knowledge of the classic paella method. This one reflects the paella I ate at a beachside tavern, surrounded by elderly and knowing locals. The recipe is accurate, because I asked. One thing you will note about this dish is the short list of ingredients. Paella is the soul of Spanish cookery for this reason, it is all about beautiful ingredients cooked simply and highly seasoned. This, in fact, is what cooking is all about. To achieve this, splash out a bit extra on the langoustines and you’ll be rewarded. For the rice, it will only ever be as good as the stock used. A dish for a special occasion.
The second recipe is as simple as it gets. The shellfish is cooked in wine and finished with herbs. Once you’ve extracted the sweet meat, it’s all about the broth, ideally mopped up with more crusty bread. Bringing some Spanish sunshine into your kitchen this bank holiday weekend.
