Suits you – Claire Doyle makes a business out of made to measure

After starting her tailored women's workwear label during the height of the recession, Claire Doyle soon realised she would have to expand her offerings to bring in enough revenue. She has continued to expand ever since.

“It was do or die. I had to maximise my income stream. In the early days, there were quiet months,” she says.

At first, she decided to offer made-to-measure clothing. Customers could come into her shop and say, “I like that suit, but can I have it in yellow with a longer sleeve?”

It appealed to a wider audience and Doyle realised customers liked choice.

From there she went into corporate uniforms. She now makes uniforms for McCabes pharmacy chain and for a large legal firm in Dublin.

“I learned you can’t stand still. I’m constantly looking for how I can maximise my income. I can’t just rely on one product; I have to move on.”

Doyle has moved on considerably since her work experience on designer Louise Kennedy’s shop floor when she was a teenager and through college. It was her creative outlet at the time.

“Working in such a beautiful place brought out my artistic side,” she says, adding that being surrounded by beautiful fabrics and well-cut suits at a young age made her love clothing and design.

Despite her interest in art, Doyle did a business studies degree in DCU. Afterwards, she worked in the audit section at Google on a short-term basis and then in the Revenue Commissioners.

Doyle had always wanted to start her own business. In 2009, at age 24, she said she was at a crossroads. “I said you know what? I’m going to do it.”

She thinks she would still be in the Revenue if she had not decided to start her fashion label.

It was touch and go at first, and Doyle agrees it was not great timing, economically speaking, to launch a business.

“It was the height of the recession and banks wouldn’t even look at you. It was really quite daunting.”

But Doyle forged ahead, opening a tailored workwear business in Smithfield, Dublin, near her market: successful working women. The Four Courts, the Law Library and the IFSC were nearby.

She says money did not flow in freely in those early days, and she had to go out and get every person through the shop door.

“There were moments when I thought, why am I putting so much stress on myself? I’m only 24. In the early days, you’re doing everything from vacuuming the floors to dealing with the accountant and seamstress to buying the fabric. It was really hard.”

Huge satisfaction

She credits her family and boyfriend, now fiancé, with getting her through those days. Now she finds huge satisfaction in owning a business, although it is never easy. “You don’t switch off at five or six like other people,” she says.

Doyle started a new phase in January, when she moved the business into a Georgian building in Fitzwilliam Square. Now she has a shop and a new manufacturing studio on premises.

Her entire label is cut and made in the building, which allows for greater control over the finished product and faster turnaround times.

Doyle’s sister Ruth, who just graduated from the Limerick School of Art and Design, does the cutting and grading. She worked with a master tailor through college.

“I get great support from Ruth. We work really well together. She has the technical skills, and I’m design and business-focused.”

Doyle’s new production facility gives her the freedom to try new things. She started out making only business suits in a few colours. Now she makes evening wear and casual clothing. She has built a niche market for made-to-measure mother-of-the-bride dresses.

The studio also allows her to make "fast fashion". Her manufacturing used to be done in Poland, with a six- to nine-month lag time.

“Sometimes a customer will come in and want something to wear at an event the next day. Now we can have something made up,” she says.

While labour costs are “very expensive”, the in-house manufacturing has worked out for her.

The future

Doyle is already planning her next expansion. She is launching a range of made-to-order wedding dresses in early 2015.

She wants to be a one-stop shop for weddings, with clothes for brides, bridesmaids and mothers of the bride and groom. “I’m quite proactive. We’re five years in and I want to grow every aspect of the business.”

She wants to become the market leader in made-to-measure uniforms, work wear and bridal wear. “It’s a very ambitious plan, but I’m in it to win.”