Swimming in the good life

BY law, no new buildings can be built along the Amalfi coast in Italy. Naturally, this causes some problems for local people, particularly young couples making a first home together.

But, this being Italy, nothing is quite as it seems.

Every available piece of soil along the spectacular, winding narrow coastal road is used, and a dizzying style of vertical cultivation is visible, with precarious terraces above and below the threading road in between houses and villages. Many of the lemon groves are covered by a black netting, a relatively new agricultural aid which protects plants from harsh weather.

It also serves another purpose if is ideal for shielding the illegal construction of a house. If you're quick and discreet enough, apparently, you can build a wee house under the netting and move in immediately without the authorities' noticing when il condono call around, a large "fee" looks after the retrospective sanction or so it goes, according to Angelina our tour guide.

The desire to preserve is understandable the Amalfi coast, a favourite holiday spot for Italians and visitors alike, south of the town of Sorrento and looking out on the Bay of Salerno, is truly beautiful one of the world's most spectacular coastal roads, running along a craggy shoreline full of cliff shaded coves and sun dappled waters. Part of the area's appeal aside from its natural beauty is the nature of the cultivation and building houses and hotels' seem to rise out of the rock, clutching tenaciously to the cliff face. The construction process must be pretty hairy indeed John Steinbeck, who lived at Positano on the Amalfi coast in 1953, commented. "Its houses climb a hill so steep it would be a cliff except that stairs are cut into it. I believe that where as most house foundations are vertical, in Positano they are horizontal."

Driving along in a large bus is terrifying even a car must test the nerves, and you're probably better off leaving the driving to someone who knows the score and the rules are tight it is illegal for a bus to allow more than six cars to bold up on the narrow road behind it and the driver must therefore pull in every so often to allow cars to pass.

Forty three miles long, from Sorrento to Salerno, the Amalfi coast incorporates the towns of Amalfi and Positano, and smaller centres such as Maoiri, where we stayed in Club Hotel 2 Torri, seemingly carved into the rock face, with a glorious vista the azure blue Bay of Salerno, and down on to a building that seems to emerge along with the rocks from the sea. That building was once a fortification, and, now houses a restaurant. Elegantly arched within, its stone walls were warm, its pizza topped with aubergine, smoked, salmon, spinach. It was our first night on a tailor made tour of Rome and the Sorrentine peninsula, organised by Topflight, which specialises in two centre holidays, or will design a trip according to where you want to visit.

Many areas of Italy have their own appeal the lure of Campania, on the west coast of southern Italy, is its mixture of spectacular coastal scenery, charming towns, the offshore islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, the proximity of the treasures of Rome, an excellent climate, historical and cultural riches. and good food and drink. The abundance of natural and creative riches makes you feel you're swimming in the good life. In fact, the region has been a base for emperors, kings and artists for more than 2,000 years. The region's capital, Naples with a reputation these days for crime and urban decay, but which also houses the excavated treasures of Pompeii in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale lends its name to a breathtaking bay, at the base of, which sits the romantic coastal town of Sorrento, on the tip of the Sorrentine peninsula. Just out on the bay is the isle of Capri, while the south of the peninsula forms the Amalfi coast.

The glories of the region were well recognised in antiquity Campania was probably settled by the Phoenicians, Cretans and Greeks, and their traces date to 1000 BC, about 300 years before the founding of Rome.

Though the land bursts with cultural, historic and archaeological wealth, reminders of ancient death and destruction are everywhere Vesuvius grumbles metaphorically in the background, while the remains of Pompeii and Herculaneum (said to have been established by Hercules), preserved by volcanic ash and mud since the volcanic eruption in AD 79, are testament to its' destructive power. The area west of Naples, known as the Phlegrean Fields the fields of, fire floats on a mass of molten lava close to the surface, while the fire still smoulders the Solfatara is the sunken crater of a semi extinct volcano with sulphurous springs. Consider too that Lake Avernus was the mythological entrance to Hades, along with the seemingly treacherous coastline, and it may hint at why the southern Italian apparently believes in living each moment for itself.

Campania has for centuries been a sybaritic haven the wealthy Romans built their country residences here these days, many more people have discovered its delights, but despite the crowds the region's charms remain.

MAOIRI is a long drive irons Rome about four hours but easily reached from a base in Sorrento. A lovely town with atmospheric streets to match its romantic name, Sorrento is technically, four towns the story has it that after the war it was subdivided in four, areas to increase employment in the civil service!

Gloriously sited looking over the Bay of Naples on one side and the Bay of Salerno on the other, Sorrento was a small, genteel resort until the mid 20th century these days the town has spread out along the crest of its cliffs. Tourism has long been the town's main source of income, and the Sorrentines guard it well, so the streets are safe. Tourism seems to be a year long activity here, and the town even attracts lots of Italians around Christmas and the New Year, to see the nativity scenes for which the town is famed. The busiest seasons are from March to May, and September/October, consequently spring or early autumn are the best times to visit.

The town is attractive, with narrow alleys and shops and stalls selling crafts and food. Follow the Via Marina Grande which becomes a stairway to the fishing village and small beach, or simply wander around the town, stopping for a cold beer nazionale at an outdoor table. Sorrento is also an ideal base from which to explore the Amalfi coast, Vesuvius, Pompeii and Herculaneum, or indeed Naples. There are plenty of local tour, companies organising excursions, or you can hire a car. The local bus service covers the Amalfi coast and the Circumvesviana railway connects Sorrento with, Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum. Sorrento is also one of the points from where you can take a ferry or hydro foil across to the island of Capri (about 15 minutes by hydrofoil it takes 45 minutes from Naples).

Capri with the emphasis on Capri is one of Europe's most glamorous hotspots. Even the name sounds magical, it comes from the Greek Kapros (wild boar), and it has long held fascination for, artists and writers, from Graham Greene to Maxim Gorky. Most people go on a day trip, probably because it has a reputation for being expensive (though there are moderately priced hotels too). If you have time to spend there, exploring the island on foot is an appealing possibility walking tours are organised, and the local tourist agency has produced a colour book with 12 walking tours covering the historical, environmental (the island has 850 species and 130 varieties of plants and flowers) and literary attractions.

A limestone (rather than volcanic) island, whose cliffs tower perpendicularly out of the sea eroded into strange shapes and grottoes, Capri (population 12,000) has two towns, Capri and Anacapri. On the usual tourist trail there's a 90 minute trip by boat around the island to the Blue Grotto, where you transfer into a smaller row boat to go, into a cavern in, the cliff face where the water, is a vibrant, luminous blue, a trip to Villa Jovis, the grandest of the villas built by Tiberius and the Gardens of Augustus,, which have a magnificent view. Also worth visiting is Villa San Michele the former Anacari home of Swedish author/physician, Axel Munthe now a museum and worth a visit for its beautiful gardens alone.

The town of Capri is mostly composed of carved into the mountain. At 452 feet and Marina Piccola on its southern side, and is reached by taxi or funicular. It is full of small exclusive boutiques, restaurants, and the hint of glorious homes and lavish lifestyles behind high walls and lush gardens. There are no cars in the centre of town and you climb hills and steps "to get most places, which is charming, if sometimes tiring. The trick is to take things at an easy pace and eat plenty of fruity gelati to cool you down. We ate at the Blue Moon restaurant and danced the night away to a raucous local band who brewed up a storm for the mixture of locals and blow ins in La Guarracino, a local tavern. (There was no entrance fee the cover charge was included in the first drink, which cost, about £10).

And how to bring it all back home? You'd need a trunk (and a trunkful of money) to take back all the goodies that appeal to the senses in Italy from quality silk and leather (especially shoes) to the edible Mediterranean delights of olives and their oils, salamis and cheeses. Other, buys include Limoncello (the local lemon liqueur), Grappa (if you like the Italian spirit), kitchenware of all sorts (from oil/vinegar holders and parmesan graters to classy designer stuff), ceramics, including wall tiles, and spices and herbs, often in beautifully shaped glass bottles and jars to sit on your kitchen shelves and brings back warm thoughts of Italy on a damp November evening.

How To GET THERE

WE travelled, with Topflight (01-6799177), which specialises in trips to Italy. It does two centre holidays (around £700 for two weeks at three or four star hotels), which combine Rome and Sorrento the hot, heady, stamina testing capital with more masterpieces per square toot than any other city in the world, and the relaxed, scenic coastal town which is an excellent base for venturing further, afield. Alternatively it has a number of organised Italian tours or it will design a trip according to your specifications.

We flew direct from Dublin to Rome with Alitalia, but be aware, the return flight is very early, and necessitates an unearthly start!