WITH A fresh take on Dior’s famous “New Look” of 1947, John Galliano yesterday raided the archives of the iconic French fashion house to reinterpret the famous “bar” suit that made Christian Dior’s name and fortune.
But instead of the familiar tiny waisted sloping jackets and full skirts, those of the new order came with squared shoulders, defined waists, a trim of white lace and skirts draped or gathered at the hemline. In fabrics like grey and white ikat print or pinstripe, they looked smart and elegant.
This was a collection inspired by the “decadence of the Orientalists” with lavish coats of black and purple astrakhan, imperial jackets of gold brocade worn Chinese emperor style with conical fur trimmed hats. It was opulent and luxurious certainly, but in straitened times, the rainbow-coloured-goddess dresses that followed in their wake, speckled with gold or scattered with silver all jewelled tassels and billowing tulle, though undoubtedly gorgeous, seemed to belong to more rarefied lives.
Grey suits turned up at Issey Miyake’s wonderful collection yesterday, with dayglo green or red cuffs on jackets and trousers adding a fluorescent flash of colour. Launching the show which was held in the round were three karate masters including French champions, twins Sabrina and Jessica Buil who gave short and punchy demonstrations.
The collaboration was a way of highlighting inventive new fabrics using Miyake’s signature pleating in innovative ways. In a rich collection full of ideas, digital geometric prints were playful and striking, black lace knits with dayglo vests sporty and modern and colourful long striped dresses layered like handkerchiefs in angular shapes were beautiful and breathtaking.
Anti-fur Peta protesters turned up outside Vivienne Westwood’s show with banners bearing slogans like “Fur is No Skin Off Your Back” in spite of a collection that made use of traditional Scottish fabrics like wool, velvet and tartan, but no fur. It was Westwood’s usual take on a Scottish theme with rustic jackets, ragged knits and blankets tossed casually over the shoulders.
Sex symbol Pamela Anderson livened up the event in a fantail of pink and white tulle, her hair, like that of the models and the general thrust of the collection, artfully dishevelled.