SEOUL:The people of Seoul tend not to dwell on the tensions across the demilitarised zone
CONSIDERING YOU are less than an hour’s drive away from the last vestige of the Iron Curtain, behind which lurks the threat of nuclear annihilation by the world’s only Communist dynasty, Seoul at this time of year is a pleasant place to be.
In some ways, it shouldn’t be. Four South Koreans – two marines and two civilians – were killed in the artillery assault on Yeonpyeong island last month, North Korea’s heaviest bombardment since the 1950-53 Korean War, which ended with an uneasy truce.
Meanwhile, the nuclear- powered aircraft carrier USS George Washingtonis in the Yellow Sea for military exercises with the South Korean navy, prompting a series of angry responses from Pyongyang, who have promised to take "merciless" steps.
Some of the reactions to the attack can seem fatalistic, macho or perhaps irresponsible.
“Okay, I’m going to continue shopping, so call me if war really breaks out,” was how one young man put it.
One young woman, who asked to remain anonymous, was at the dentist when the news broke.
“Looks like the war is going to break out now,” the dentist said, then continued working on her teeth.
It’s not foolhardiness. This is South Korean survival instinct combined with an innate toughness that has seen the country rise from one of the poorest in the world after the Korean War to the 15th richest now. This year it stands out as the most economically successful major democracy in the world.
“What are you going to do? What can you do?” said the young woman.
The trees are turning stunning hues of gold and red and the streets are warm enough to amble around happily. In Seoul, most people are very keen to tell you just how great they think their city is and tend not to dwell on the tensions across the demilitarised zone (DMZ) dividing the Korean peninsula.
“Korea pushes to be the best, build the biggest” ran a recent headline in the JoongAng Daily, atop a story listing 20 reasons to come back to Korea. This includes details of its plans to build the world’s tallest twin towers with the 151 Incheon Tower, or the flagship Digital Media City project or even the success of the Korean football team.
Friendly but serious, Koreans want to find out what you think about their capital city of 22 million people, which has been overshadowed by regional hotspots such as Hong Kong and Tokyo. Seoul’s people think this is unfair, and while the city lacks the immediate personality of the Japanese capital, it plays to its strengths, pushing its high-tech credentials and cool design heritage.
“A lot of people think Korea is just a divided country, a dangerous place, but I want them to know that Korea is a safe and beautiful country,” said Yoo Ji-eun (24), from the southern city of Busan.
Her boyfriend Hyuk So (25), says: “Twenty years ago we were very poor. Now our life is more comfortable and safe.”
In the sumptuous bar of the Plaza hotel, the menu comes on an iPad and the beer, even though a Japanese Asahi beer costs around €10, is served with considerable grace.
In the restaurants serving succulent barbecue and kimchi, the atmosphere is of a well-fed nation at ease with itself. At any time of day it seems there are three channels on TV showing golf, or giving ginseng tips and exercise advice to the country’s ageing middle class.
The luxurious Sunday brunch at the W hotel reminds one of the fact that just across the DMZ, people have been reduced to eating tree bark in the last few years. North Korea has relied on outside food aid since natural disasters and mismanagement devastated its economy in the mid-1990s.
Economic suffering north of the border means the number of North Koreans defecting to the South has surged in recent years, with more than 10,000 defections over the past three years.
The South Korean unification ministry says as many North Koreans have defected to the South since 2007 as over the entire previous period since the 1950-53 Korean War ended with an armistice. The overall total stands now at 20,050.
The DMZ has two million North Korean, US and South Korean troops in an unceasingly tense standoff across the 38th parallel of the Korean Peninsula.
The shelling of Yeonpyeong, combined with North Korea’s development of nuclear
capability and a recent row over the sinking of a South Korean naval vessel combined to act as a reminder of just how tense that standoff is.
In Seoul, you are constantly aware that North Korea has over 10,000 artillery units pointing at the capital, less than 60km away, and they could take out large parts of the South Korean capital within minutes.
Despite this backdrop, South Korea continues to function as normal.
There have been anti-North Korean rallies this week and lots of sabre-rattling on both sides, but most people just go about their business as normal. What are you going to do?
