Bottle Of The Week

A tenner is a fair bit to pay for the week's bottle - but at least Clos de Coulaine Savennieres, Papin-Chevalier, 1996 (stockists above, usually £9.99) tastes every penny of its price. Lemon, honeydew melon, minerals. . . within a beautifully silky body, this exhilarating, subtle wine carries the characteristics of a tiny appellation where yields are kept low to concentrate flavours. And to think that these will grow richer and more complex over years! This is beginning to look like the bargain of the century. Small warning: sip it slowly. Though it doesn't come across as a heavy hitter, its alcohol rating is 15 per cent.