Paris has long been a favourite tourist spot. Way before the eponymous Emily brought a new swathe of influencers to the city after the Netflix show, its reputation for culture, food, art and fashion ensured Paris was at the top of many travel wish lists. It is the second most visited city in the world, and while the number of visitors has not yet returned to pre-pandemic levels, about 30 million people will visit this year, a figure boosted by the Rugby World Cup matches taking place in Stade de France.
According to the Paris Region Tourism Board, 41 per cent of return visitors have been to Paris 10 times or more. Some Irish rugby fans may have already visited the city several times this autumn alone, and will hopefully be back again over the coming weeks. So, once a visitor has ticked the box and seen the Mona Lisa or climbed the Eiffel Tower a couple of times, what else can Paris offer?
Since moving to Paris a few years ago, I’ve discovered many fabulous, lesser-known gems in the city, which might pique the interest of even the most seasoned Paris visitor.
French food with a twist in Paris
Let’s start by sating our appetites. The produce in France is fantastic, and the cooking techniques are world-class. The allure of France, coupled with its past colonial ties, strengthens its culinary reputation. Visitors to the city can discover an array of non-traditional French, international and fusion restaurants. If you’re looking for a change from steak tartare or confit duck, check these places out.
Saigon Snack
9 Rue Royer-Collard, 75005 Paris
This tiny hole in the wall serves a simple menu of Vietnamese favourites. The rice paper rolls (banh cuôn) are especially good with extra chilli and are a perfect picnic lunch to take to the nearby Luxembourg Gardens. Get there early, they sell out, and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
Double Dragon
52 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris; doubledragonparis.com
Boasting an excellent wine list featuring low-intervention wine from small producers, this vibrant Filipino-influenced fusion restaurant has the best deep-fried pork shank. Be prepared to share; it’s a big portion. Any seafood or fish dish on the menu should also be added to your order.
Reyna
41 Rue de Montreuil, 75011 Paris; reyna.paris/en.html
Chef Erica Paredes is cooking up a storm at this trendy fusion restaurant. The chilli oil and peanut-topped burrata is one of the best things I ate last year. The wine list is thoughtful and works wonderfully with the food. Booking advised; it’s a popular spot.
Yoru
62 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris; yoruparis.com
Excellent sushi with a contemporary French fusion twist. The miso grilled aubergine is fantastic.
Restaurant Đông Phat
10 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris; dongphat.fr/pc_index.php
A good value Vietnamese spot not far from the Eiffel Tower and just off the charming Rue Cler. My go-to dish is the crispy pancake (bánh xèo) stuffed with pork, shrimp and crunchy vegetables. Wrap pieces in lettuce, dress with herbs and dunk in the accompanying sauce. The texture and flavours are unbeatable.
Hachi
4 Rue Toullier, 75005 Paris; hachibento.com
This charming Japanese restaurant in the Latin Quarter serves tasty, excellent value bento boxes. A meal here is never complete without a couple of delicate Sakura-flavoured mochi (a bun-shaped dessert), the best I have ever had.
[ Rugby World Cup eats: Best restaurants in Nantes and Paris for fans to tryOpens in new window ]
Best places for brunch in Paris
Treize au Jardin
5 Rue de Médicis, 75006 Paris; treizeaujardin.com
This cosy, welcoming all-day brunch (up to 6pm) and lunch spot is just on the edge of the Jardin du Luxembourg. Brimming with soul, everything here is home-made. This is the place to go if you are craving southern-style chicken and waffles. Alongside its savoury dishes, the cakes, lemonades and cocktails are not to be missed. It is also very adept at accommodating dietary requirements.
Oyster Club
15 Rue de Jouy, 75004 Paris; oysterclub.fr/nos-restaurants/
Very keenly priced seasonal French seafood. I love visiting here for brunch on a Sunday from 12–2pm. The oyster sampler is a great way to taste the difference between the types of oysters. The pleasant, knowledgeable staff will guide you. A well-considered wine list makes this a place not to miss.
Best places for sweet treats in Paris
Family-sized dessert portions and twists on traditional desserts are having a moment in Paris. These restaurants serve excellent food but come with a special reminder to leave room for dessert.
Au Bon Coin
21 Rue de la Collégiale, 75005 Paris; auboncoin-bistrot.com
The star of the dessert selection is its île flottante; I’ve never seen this meringue dessert served anywhere else quite like this: generously portioned and utterly delicious. This local seasonal restaurant pleases for all courses, but don’t leave without at least sharing something sweet.
L’Ami
27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris
The rice pudding is unsurpassed. The creamy rice still retains a bite of texture and is perfectly complemented by an array of imaginative, decedent toppings. Do not baulk at the €15 price tag; it is worth every cent. Sometimes I dream of eating this.
Chez Janou
2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris
This Provençal-inspired restaurant, off Place De Vosges, has a great value lunch menu and a vast selection of pastis, an anise liquor from southern France. The dessert to enjoy here is the chocolate mousse, brought to the table and served from a family sized tureen. How it can be so rich yet also feather-light is a mystery. A perfect end to a meal.
A great wine shop
Cavewoman Wines
52 Rue du Chemin Vert, 75011 Paris; cavewomanwines.com
Every true Parisian has their own caviste, a local wine shop proprietor who can match the perfect bottle with any meal, demystifies the complex world of wine and points you to treasures among their shelves.
But finding a truly helpful caviste can be challenging, especially if the language proves a hurdle. Cavewoman Wines to the rescue. The charming wine shop and tasting venue recently celebrated its first anniversary. Australian founder Allison Eastaway aims to highlight the best bottles, focusing on low-intervention wines from female-led wineries.
The store manager, Danielle Sansom, will happily lead you to something delicious. It offers regular tastings, which you can book through its website or contact directly to arrange private group tastings. As a bonus, it partners with a local cheesemonger. If you want to pick up some bottles to bring home, this is the place to go.
Best tours and sights to visit off the beaten track in Paris
Textile tours of Paris
textiletoursofparis.com
Paris has a deserved reputation as a fashion capital. This legacy stretches back centuries and concerns household fashion names and an industry of weavers, embroiderers and textile producers that still thrives today.
Dubliner Rebecca Devaney has been living in Paris for more than seven years. During this time, she has carved out a niche uncovering the hidden histories of these fine craftspeople. Trained in haute couture embroidery at the prestigious École Lestage, Devaney now offers walking tours focusing on the textile industry and the famous flea markets of Paris, which can be booked online. If you prefer to discover these gems on your own, you can download her handy walking guide from her website. She also offers embroidery kits and classes on the art in person and online.
Grande Mosquée de Paris
2 Bis Place du Puits de l’Ermite
A gorgeous oasis in the heart of Paris. After wandering through the tranquil garden (entry is €3), indulge in hot mint tea and delicious pastries. The restaurant serves a particularly tasty lamb tagine.
Sainte-Chapelle
10 Boulevard du Palais; sainte-chapelle.fr
It is hard to find stained glass the measure of what you will find here. A short walk from Notre Dame on the Île de la Cité, this gothic wonder is well worth a visit. Buy your ticket (€11.50) in advance online; the entry queue can be a little disorganised.
Hôtel de la Marine
Place de la Concorde
This museum opened to the public in 2021 and showcases the spectacular interiors of the Garde-Meuble Royal, the institution in charge of the king’s furniture. The immersive experience will transport you back to when Louis XV and XVI reigned and lavishly gilded interiors were the fashion of the day. If you can’t make it to Versailles, this is a digestible, interactive look at royal opulence in the middle of the city.
Museum of Hunting and Nature
62 Rue des Archives
I adore museums dedicated to specific themes, such as this one devoted to hunting and nature. This beautifully formed, smaller museum is thoughtfully curated with fascinating objects. There are well-considered temporary exhibitions, and the trophy room is quite profound. Pop in if you are in the Marais and have an hour or so to spare.
Arc de Triomphe
L’Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, Place Charles de Gaulle
This iconic landmark offers one of the best views of Paris – far superior, in my opinion, to the much more popular Eiffel Tower. Be warned, the stairs are steep and winding but absolutely worth the climb, and there is a great gift shop at the top. Entry €13.
The Seine, the beating heart of Paris
The Seine is the beating heart of Paris. Stroll by the river to stumble upon impromptu dance or music events, or cycle along the wide, bike-friendly paths; municipal Velib bikes can be rented for as little as €5 a day. I am particularly fond of the open-air sculpture park along the Quai Saint-Bernard between the Pont de Sully and the Pont d’Austerlitz. Just beside this park is the Jardin Des Plantes stop for the Batobus, a hop-on-hop-off Seine boat cruise. Tickets are €19 per adult for a day pass, €9 for children and babies travel free.
I love this water-level view of the city that takes about 90 minutes from start to finish. When you board, I suggest finding a seat on the Louvre side of the boat; that way, by the time you get to the final stop, you are in the perfect position for a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower as the boat turns. At the last stop, break for refreshments. While not the cheapest glass of wine in Paris, the rosé on offer at the quayside cafes is more than acceptable and, considering the location and the view, not at all bad value.
Susan Boyle is a drinks specialist and Fulbright scholar who has been living on and off in Paris for two years. She came to practise the language and stayed because of the cheese.
