Show me the gardener who hasn’t at some point planted something in the wrong spot. Or - crucially - in the very, nearly, almost, but unfortunately just not quite (goddammit) right spot, something we generally realise with a pang of regret some months or years after the fact.
This often comes down to the not inconsiderable challenge of correctly gauging how much growing space will eventually be required. Confronted with a baby shrub or young tree supplied in a small pot, it’s hard to properly imagine it as a mature specimen with a large canopy of spreading branches.
That aside, plants end up in the wrong spot in our gardens for lots of other reasons, from wishful thinking and hasty decision-making to changes in the ways we choose to use our outdoor spaces. That young sapling originally intended to frame a beautiful vista might become the very same tree that’s now slap-bang in the way of a planned new extension or garden studio. Or rather than framing that beautiful vista, it might now instead threaten to obscure it.
Plus, it’s not always our fault. Occasionally a plant can exceed its expected height and spread, so exceptionally happy is it with the growing conditions it’s been given. Or it might threaten to outgrow its allotted space only because the nursery/breeder that supplied it woefully underestimated its rate of growth and eventual size (just think of all those ‘dwarf’ conifers planted in the 1970s).
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Alternatively, some plants just sometimes struggle to thrive, despite being given what seems like the perfect spot. This could be because of buried builders’ rubble restricting root growth, or a problem with soil compaction, an issue with drainage, or just pure contrariness (plants, just like people, can sometimes be cantankerous).
The solution? Move it.
Late October, that time of year when soils are typically warm and damp and offer optimum conditions for damaged root systems to efficiently recover, is the ideal month to do so, for both deciduous and evergreen species. But before you race out, spade in hand and wheelbarrow to the ready, bear in mind some useful pointers that will make the process both a whole lot easier as well as more likely to result in success.
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- Plants (again, just like people) don’t appreciate any sort of sudden upheaval to their living conditions. Do it badly, without sufficient preparation or due consideration for the initial trauma to their root systems, and they’re likely to sulk, or worse, to die.
- The larger the plant is and the longer it’s been in its present growing spot, the more likely it is that it will resent being transplanted. So be realistic. Unless you have the unlimited financial resources of Georgian billionaire and former prime minister Bidzina Ivanishvili, who transplanted countless mature trees from various remote locations in Georgia to his own garden on the Black Sea coast at unimaginable cost, you can forget moving a mature beech or relocating that ancient apple tree.
- If it’s a young tree or shrub that’s been growing in its present position for less than five years, then the odds of it successfully surviving being transplanted are high. For trees and shrubs somewhat older than this but still young, the odds aren’t as quite as good but can be greatly improved with careful planning and the use of heavy machinery to make the process more efficient as well as to minimise stress to the root systems.
- Whether you’re moving it by hand or with the help of a mini-digger, preparation is key. This is especially true when it comes to readying the large root-balls of bigger plants for excavation with as little damage as possible. One of the time-honoured ways to do this is by carefully excavating a deep circular trench around the root ball, ideally starting from roughly a year (between November-February) before the plant is to be moved.
- The circumference of this trench should ideally roughly echo that of the plant’s canopy in terms of spread, a simple but useful way to roughly gauge the potential size of the root-ball below ground. Aim for a trench width of 30cm, then backfill with sand to encourage the development of lots of finer, fibrous roots better able to tolerate transplantation when the time comes.
- As for the job of excavating the root-ball of an established young tree or shrub by hand, this is always going to be a slow and laborious task, so pace yourself. Use a strong, sharp spade, pick-axe and shovel, doing your best to avoid damage to the root system as you dig, with the aim of maintaining as much of it intact as possible. That said, you’ll inevitably need to trim away some roots to get the plant out of the ground. Use a sharp secateurs or loppers to do this, neatly cutting rather than hacking them.
- To minimise disturbance to the root system by quickly transferring the plant to its new position, always prepare the new planting hole before rather than after excavation of the root ball, aiming for a wide, generously sized hole that will easily accommodate the excavated root ball. If the soil is poor, work some home-made garden compost into the bottom of the hole prior to planting.
- Speed is of the essence. Again, any exposure to sunlight and wind will quickly dry out and damage a plant’s all-important root system - its engine room - so the faster you get it in the ground the better. If that’s not immediately possible, then water it and wrap the root ball temporarily with tarpaulin or plastic sheeting to protect it. Some tough plastic sheeting or tarpaulin is also very useful in terms of minimising mess (place the excavated plant directly on it) as well as moving the uprooted plant to its new planting position (it’s often easier to use a tarp to drag it there rather than laboriously lifting it into a wheelbarrow).
- Before placing the excavated root-ball in its new planting hole, use a stick to gauge that the latter is the correct size and depth. If it’s too deep, then backfill with a little soil first before gently lowering the plant into it. Always - this is crucial - replant to the original planting depth (not higher, not lower), something you can gauge by looking at the original planting line at the base of the plant. Gently firm the soil in with your foot as you backfill to remove air pockets and ensure good contact between the roots and the soil.
- Last but not least, always generously water the plant the night before transplanting, generously water it again after transplanting, and then water it during any dry spells throughout the following year. An organic mulch spread around the base of the plant after planting will also do a lot to help lock in soil moisture and encourage its root system to re-establish as quickly as possible.
This week in the garden
Plant cloves of autumn garlic, gently pressing them into the ground (pointy end up) to a depth of 2cm below soil level and at a rough spacing of 15cm between cloves. Garlic likes a weed-free, fertile but not recently manured, free-draining soil in full sun. Recommended varieties for autumn planting include ‘Morado’, ‘Messidrome’ and ‘Vallelado’ (suppliers include fruithillfarm.com).
October is also an excellent time of year to plant rhubarb, choosing a sheltered spot in full sun or very light shade and with a rich, moisture-retentive but free-draining soil, ideally enriched with plenty of well-rotted manure.
[ Six things to do in the early autumn garden to prepare for winter and springOpens in new window ]
Dates for your diary
Propagation Through the Year, a talk Scoil Mhuire Naofa, Carrigtwohill, Co Cork, Thursday, October 23rd (8pm). Talk by Hannah Fox of Bright Green Fox micro-nursery in East Sussex in the UK on behalf of Cork Alpine Hardy Plant Society, with members’ plant sale on the night. Visitors €10, all welcome.
