Skincare products. So many types, promises and ingredients. It can all be deeply confusing. But perhaps even more challenging than decoding the label on your serum is figuring out what to do with it once it’s in your hands. In what order should products be applied? Can they be layered? How long should you wait in between?
If you’re using both a vitamin C serum and a hydrating serum, which one goes first? Should you apply face oil before or after moisturiser?
And when it comes to SPF, can you rely on the sunscreen in your moisturiser – or do you really need a separate product? (Spoiler: yes, you do.) It’s a lot to figure out.
In the second instalment of my monthly beauty masterclass series, we’re breaking it all down – with affordable product recommendations along the way.
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Step one (but not for everyone): cleansing
A good routine starts with a clean slate. Usually, that means cleansing in the morning with a gentle, non-stripping cream or milky cleanser, like CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser (€13 for 236ml from Boots) or The Ordinary Glycolipid Cream Cleanser (€13.40 from Beauty Features). But – and this is important – not everyone needs this step.
If your skin is dry or very dry, you might be better off skipping it. Overnight, your skin works hard to build up moisture, and cleansing first thing can undo that. A splash of lukewarm water is often enough. If your skin is oilier or combination, a morning cleanse will remove overnight build-up and prep the skin for what’s next.
Step two: serums
After cleansing, it’s time for your actives – usually an antioxidant serum. Vitamin C is the go-to (and with good reason; it’s one of the most studied ingredients in skincare), but niacinamide also fits here – it’s a particularly great option for sensitive skin. Two of my favourites include Vichy LiftActiv Supreme Brightening Vitamin C Serum (€48.95 from lookfantastic.com) and Naturium Niacinamide Serum (€21 from Space NK).
Vitamin C (and niacinamide) should be applied to clean, dry skin. Vitamin C can be irritating – especially when used on damp skin, which is more permeable – so if you’re new to it or have sensitive skin, let your face dry fully before applying.
Then comes hydration, often in the form of a hyaluronic acid serum, which is particularly useful in colder months when skin is prone to dehydration. Great options include Byoma Hydrating Serum (€15 from Space NK) and Pestle & Mortar Hyaluronic Acid Serum (€45 from Brown Thomas).
So, which serum goes first – vitamin C or hyaluronic acid? It depends on the texture. The golden rule when it comes to application is thinnest to thickest. If your vitamin C is watery and your hyaluronic acid is thicker, vitamin C goes first. If it’s the other way around, reverse the order. Repeat the mantra while you apply: thinnest to thickest.
Step three: lock it in
Next comes moisturiser. Its job isn’t just to hydrate – it seals in the serums you’ve just applied and helps everything absorb more effectively.
In warmer months, a lightweight option usually works, like La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Soothing Cream (€25 from Boots). As temperatures drop, you may want something richer and more emollient, like Medik8 Advanced Night Restore (€70 from Cult Beauty).
Step four: sunscreen
Now for the non-negotiable – sunscreen. Every day, forever and ever. A common myth is that the SPF in your moisturiser is “good enough”. It’s not. Even if the label says SPF30, are you really applying enough to get that protection? Probably not.
For proper coverage, you need two full finger-lengths of product – just for your face and neck. Most people apply a few dots and call it a day, which won’t cut it. That’s why I always recommend a dedicated sunscreen after moisturiser.
Choose one with at least SPF30, like Summer Fridays Shadedrops SPF30 (€40 from Space NK), or La Roche Posay Anthelios UVAir SPF50 (€26 from Meaghers Pharmacy) and apply it generously to your face, neck and chest.
Time between layers
How long should you wait between products? Not long. Give each layer a minute or two to absorb – slightly longer between moisturiser and sunscreen if you can. This helps prevent pilling (when your products start balling up on your skin).
What about the extras?
If you’re using other serums – niacinamide, peptides, anything else – the same rule applies: thinnest to thickest. Texture is your guide, always.
Your evening routine
Evening skincare is a variation on your morning routine, with a few key changes. First: double cleansing.
Even if you don’t wear make-up, you should be double cleansing – because you should be wearing sunscreen. The first cleanse (usually an oil or balm) breaks down SPF and make-up. The second (a cream or milk cleanser – the same one from your morning routine) actually cleans your skin. Oil and balm cleansers I love include Medik8 Lipid-Balance Cleansing Oil (€38 from millies.ie) and Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm (€40 from Arnotts).
From here, you’ve got two options: keep it simple – hydrating serum and moisturiser – or add actives. If you’re using retinol, apply it to clean, dry skin and give it about 10 minutes to absorb. Follow with a hydrating serum, then moisturiser. If you’re exfoliating, do that after cleansing, then layer on hydration and moisturiser.
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If you’re dealing with dehydration, especially in colder months, you might also want to add a face oil at night. If you do, apply after moisturiser – not before. Think of it as your final seal.
The golden rule
No matter your routine – morning or evening – the principle generally stays the same. Products go on thinnest to thickest, and you should wait at least a minute between layers. That’s the scaffolding of a routine that not only makes sense, but actually works.
