I’ve been dealing with melasma on my face for several years now. It’s an annoying, sludge-like stain that demands to be covered with make-up most days. While I’ve managed to reduce its appearance over time with specific skincare products, it’s still not where I’d like it to be. So I decided to try a new, innovative laser treatment in an effort to reduce it further.
But before I dive into that, let’s first talk about what melasma is – a habitually misunderstood skin condition. Essentially, it’s a type of hyperpigmentation and is classed as a pigmentary disorder. It typically appears on the skin as brown or greyish-brown patches (looking almost like a spilt coffee stain). Generally, the patches that appear mirror each other. In my case, I have matching patches on both sides of my jawline. Fun.
It’s often treated as regular sun damage when, in reality, it requires a slow, cautious approach that doesn’t make it worse. Melasma can occur for several reasons, including genetics, certain medications, sun damage, and hyperthyroidism, but it’s most often triggered by hormonal changes, such as pregnancy or menopause. It’s more prevalent in women than in men.
It gets worse in the sun and it’s quite tricky to treat, as it can react negatively to light and heat-based treatments. Banishing it requires a steady hand, expert advice, and a multipronged approach that includes identifying lifestyle triggers, committing to lifelong, daily sunscreen use, and using a well-formulated Vitamin C and retinoid in your skincare routine.
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In terms of treatments, very specific laser therapies that use ultra-short energy pulses without excessive heat can help reduce the appearance of melasma. One such treatment is LaseMD Ultra, developed in Korea, which I recently tried at Le Formulaire in Dublin.
One of the quickest laser treatments I’ve ever had, and administered by Dr Emma Fanning, I was on the bed for no more than 15 minutes. My skin was cleansed, goggles were placed over my eyes, and then Fanning used a hand-held device with a sort of roller at the end – it’s moved back and forth across the skin, with several passes over each area of the face. No numbing cream is used, and while it’s quite tolerable, the sensation is one of intense heat and scratching.
Although I was having LaseMD Ultra for melasma, it’s also recommended for general skin rejuvenation – reducing wrinkles, minimising pores and plumping the skin. A specific Vitamin A serum was applied at the end of the treatment and I was given the remainder to use at home.
“It’s a unique treatment in that it creates channels in the skin without breaking the top layer, like microneedling does, for example. These channels allow us to push targeted ingredients, like Vitamin A, Vitamin C or Tranexamic acid, deep into the skin to amplify results,” says Fanning. “We adjust the settings and ingredients for each client so it’s very much tailored to specific concerns – and unlike many other lasers, it’s a treatment that can be administered year-round.”
Immediately afterward, my skin felt very hot and looked very red, but that began to subside within an hour. By that evening, my skin had visually all but returned to normal. I say visually because although my skin looked fine, it had started to feel like sandpaper; rough, textured and bumpy – and it stayed that way for several days afterwards. I also looked more “tanned” as the pigment started rising to the surface, ready to flake off.
Now, almost a month post-treatment, there is an undeniable reduction in the small sun-damaged spots that were present on my skin. It also looks smoother and more radiant. I’m under no illusion about how long it will take to see a reduction in the melasma patches on my jawline, however. I was told I’d likely need three to four sessions – and each session costs €450, or €1,200 for a package of three.
“Some clients see an improvement after just one treatment, but we always recommend a minimum of three sessions, depending on what’s being targeted, so optimal results can be achieved,” says Fanning. “Treating a pigmentary condition like melasma is a long game that requires patience and consistency, both with treatments and appropriate skincare – but it can be done.”
This week I’m loving ... Victoria Beckham by Augustinus Bader The Cell Rejuvenating Illuminator
Described as “the last step in skincare, the first step in make-up”, the Cell Rejuvenating Illuminator (€94 from Brown Thomas) is essentially a primer, though arguably with one of the most advanced formulations available in its category.
[ Blend it like Beckham with Victoria’s new range of make-up brushesOpens in new window ]
The latest release from Victoria Beckham’s ongoing collaboration with Augustinus Bader, this glow-giving product blends skincare science with hydration and radiance to smooth, plump, brighten, and blur the skin. Available in three shades – Pearlescent, Rose, and Golden – it’s luxurious, lightweight and leaves the skin looking dreamily ethereal.
