Hidden Ireland: A trip through the Munster Vales

Welcome to the Munster Vales, “an authentic slice of Ireland”.

Munster Vales ... Munster Vales .. ah, where?

Even to a born, bred and starved Munster man, I'm not at all sure where the vales of the province lie. Perhaps best to first consider what comes to mind when you think of the touristy parts of Munster, particularly the areas within touching distance of the coastline around southwest Ireland.

Well, now look inland.

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Munster Vales comprises, in truth, a neglected part of Ireland – and not just in terms of tourism. Lying to the south of Cashel and Tipperary town, east of Charleville and Mallow, and north of Fermoy and Lismore, it's a vast area between the cities of Cork, Limerick, Waterford and Kilkenny.

You’ve driven through it, or perhaps glimpsed parts of it from the window of a train.

It is home to none of the most popular tourist attractions on the island (though the Rock of Cashel may just squeeze inside its border). It never features on the “places to see before you die” lists regularly featured on international tourist websites.

Have I sold you on the Munster Vales yet?

And yet...

Somewhere over the past few years, while much of the island was spending much of its time looking for safe, fun, outdoor, domestic activities to distract themselves while the world got back on its axis, the Munster Vales found its voice.

Of course, the mountain ranges, the walking, cycling and hiking trails, the angling, the heritage and cultural attractions, the hospitality... they spoke for themselves, and have for a very long time.

Perhaps we just weren’t listening.

Even some of the local residents haven’t been aware of the rich talent hiding among them. Somewhere between the mountains of the Galtees, Ballyhouras, Nagles, Comeraghs and Knockmealdowns are some of Ireland’s most talented artists.

Finding an outlet for their talents, however, has not been easy, though some have shown the way. From the Galty Gallery (just outside the Limerick village of Kilbeheny) to the tiny gallery Great Artitude (in the Cork town of Doneraile), to Gallery Valerie (in Waterford's Lismore), art, craft and design shops are the lifeblood for the extraordinary artistic talent that reside in the Munster Vales.

And, in Fermoy, a much bigger enterprise has formed – with the Blackwater Valley Makers. A collection of talented artists, craftspeople and designers from the surrounding came together in 2018 to establish a centre to display and sell their craft and art work.

"The support we've gotten from the local community is incredible," says Pat Murphy, a woodworker from Kildorrey, who is behind the counter on the day we visit the shop in the centre of Fermoy . Furniture, paintings, ceramics, jewellery, and much more, the gallery and craft shop is staffed by the 16 makers on a rota basis, so customers get to meet one of the artists.

Back across the Cork-Tipp border, a different concept, though no less important for the arts, exists in Cahir. Opened only in the second half of 2021, Cahir Arts Gallery, displaying the best of local talent, has already hosted several exhibitions, and also provides space for artists to work. "It's early days, but I'm delighted with the way it's going," says owner Siobhán Caplice, who returned to Tipperary recently after several decades living in France.

There are two crucial things to keep in mind before you decide to check out the Munster Vales region. One is that the exploring is best done with private transport. You almost certainly need a car – unless cycling is a passion. And two, the choice of a suitable base in the vast area is crucial.

Luckily, the choices are many – with Cork's Mitchelstown and Tipperary's Cahir probably the two most central towns in the Munster Vales.

Cahir House Hotel is an ideal base for a break in the region, or a little out the road, Kilcoran Lodge Hotel. The luxurious 42-bedroom Cashel Palace will open in March, 2022. Or, if you're feeling a little more adventurous and you're looking for something a little different, how about Ballyhoura Mountain Lodges – a cluster of wooden chalets built at the foot of the Ballyhoura mountains within a mature forest. Situated a kilometre from the Limerick village of Ballyorgan, it's sure to appeal to those looking for the outdoor paradise the region offers – hiking, walking, cycling, mountain biking, and so on. And yes, there is wifi. There's even a mountain bike park nearby, and road cycle and walking trails in all directions.

If it’s outdoor activities you are looking for, you’re in the right place.

But then, that’s a recurring theme in every corner of the Munster Vales.

While the jewel in the crown for the Munster Vales is the Mitchelstown Caves – at least it for this explorer, who has visited many times since I was a child – what's above ground is finally luring tourists to the area. The Suir Blueway Tipperary is a 53km trail from Carrick-on-Suir to Cahir via Clonmel – the route made up of a 21km walking/cycling trail from Carrick-on-Suir to Clonmel and a further 32km of waterway which can be canoed or kayaked. It is a truly amazing way to sample Ireland's beautiful countryside and rich cultural heritage.

The Suir flows down through the heart of the Munster Vales region, with the Blackwater skirting its southern edge – flowing eastwards through Mallow, Fermoy and Lismore, before abruptly changing direction and heading south at Cappoquin. Run by a native of Cappoquin, Denis Murray's Blackwater Boating is one of those taking advantage of the beautiful river and its stunning scenery – offering kayaking and canoeing trips to tourists.

And does a trip to the Munster Vales even count if you don't at least rub a horse's head? Or, how about a little more... ever been on a horse? Or maybe you're an experienced rider and want a trek through some beautiful woodland? Or perhaps you would like the children to get some tuition on a pony? No matter where you are in the Munster Vales it seems you are within walking distance of an equestrian centre. And many have the privilege of combining their own facilities with parks and mountain trails on their doorstep – such as Cahir Equestrian Centre, which is situated on the outskirts of the town and run by local Fiona Hyland.

Perhaps what the Munster Vales can rightly shout loudest about is the variety of locally grown produce, of which food and drink establishments have been quick and clever enough to take advantage.

From Mikey Ryan's in Cashel to Mallow's Longueville House, from Foley's on the Mall in Lismore to Mitchelstown's Marketplace Restaurant, menus boast of nearby sources.

Wherever you are spending your day, there's a quality stop to rest and refuel close by. For example, after working up an appetite in the grounds of Cahir Castle (built in 1142) and known by historians as the site of a three-day siege by the army of the Earl of Essex in 1599 – and by everyone else as the site for big-budget movies such as Excalibur and The Last Duel – you can stop for lunch in the comparatively newly built (former 18th century manor house) Cahir House Hotel (whether or not you are actually staying there).

Or, if you fancy spoiling yourself a little, on the same street is Lava Rock Restaurant – a relative newcomer, but already featuring regularly in restaurant guides and claiming several food awards. Or it's a 15-minute drive to the amazing Old Convent in Clogheen, at the foot of the Knockmealdown Mountain, for a tasting menu. Both are strong examples of the recent rise in quality restaurants in the region.

We know where the Munster Vales is now. And, as the world hopefully begins to spin a little more normally again, it’s hoped the area can continue to grow in popularity and entice others to get to know it too.

Sure who needs the sea anyway?

[ Munster Vales ]