Putting Chianti back on the table

There's plenty of rubbish Chanti on the market, but the best deserves great praise, writes JOHN WILSON.

CHIANTI COULD BE SEEN as the Italian equivalent of Bordeaux. The most widely known wine name in any country is always open to being abused by the unscrupulous producer, only too happy to sell inferior rubbish at the highest possible price. Bordeaux has suffered from this in the past, although the general standard is much higher now. Chianti has suffered even more.

Pale, sometimes browning at the edges, thin and acidic, cheap Chianti provided essential alcoholic lubrication in pizza and pasta joints the world over. The empty bottles, clad in straw fiasca, were then used as candle holders. Much of it probably did not come from the Chianti region, and most of it was pretty awful. Then in the 1980s and 1990s, when Tuscany became one of the trendiest places to holiday, the super-rich moved in, buying up vineyards, restoring or constructing stately homes. It became fashionable to make both “Super Tuscans”, from foreign grapes, as well as Chianti. Some are great wines, but there are also plenty of over-oaked, over-extracted monsters that might win a wow from the wine critics, but make very poor dinner companions.

Somewhere between the super-expensive and cheap and nasty groups, there has always been a small group of quality-conscious producers content to make the excellent, classic wines that made the region famous in the first place.

Chianti is divided into eight sub-regions, each with a name appended. Then there is a larger surrounding area labelled simply as Chianti. The true heart is Chianti Classico, where some of the world’s greatest wines are made. Classico tends to be fuller and more substantial, the other two most widely known regions of Chianti Rufina and Chianti Colli Senesi are lighter and more elegant.

The most important grape variety is Sangiovese, grown elsewhere in Italy, but seldom reaching the same heights as in Chianti. It does not make an easy wine. It tends to be firm and dry, savoury rather than sweet, with a solid structure. You rarely find yourself using the words “soft” or “plump”. There is sometimes an earthy touch, and a wildness to the cherry fruits. It can have an acidic kick, particularly in lesser vintages.

It really only makes sense with food. It is also a great sipping wine to savour as it slowly unwinds. Locally, game, and rabbit are the traditional accompaniments, braised and then served with pappardelle or polenta. Others go for bistecca alla fiorentina, grilled T-bone steaks, served with lemon and olive oil. Over the past few weeks I have drunk several old bottles of Chianti from the excellent 1997 and 1998 vintages. None cost more than €20, but all provided wonderful, thoughtful drinking.

The two best vintages to look out for are 2004 and 2006. According to Paulo de Marchi of Isole e Olena, “2004 is spicier, with tighter tannins, but very classic, 2006 has more fruit and lovely ripe tannins. We had good balanced growth, and no real problems.” The 2007 vintage is not bad either. I have tasted a number of really enjoyable 2006 Chiantis, listed below.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Chianti Classico Isole e Olena 2006, 13.5%, €24.99. Paolo de Marchi is one of the very best winemakers in Italy today. As well as this wine, he is responsible for the amazing Sangiovese Cepparello, and a newer project in Piemonte, Sperino, which is producing some superb Nebbiolo-based wines. This wine is beautifully scented, with ripe but piquant cherries sheathed in light tannins. Impeccable wine and quintessential Chianti Classico. Stockists:Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; 64 Wine, Glasthule; On The Grapevine, Dalkey; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Cellar Master, Sandyford; McHugh's, Artane and Kilbarrack; WineOnline.ie; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; Red Island Wine Company, Skerries; Avoca Handweavers.

Chianti Classico Casale Dello Sparviero 2006, Fattoria Campoperi, 13%, €19.00-€20.50.A lovely traditional style of Chianti with some slightly earthy, cool dark cherry fruits, plenty of structure, and a long dry finish. I can see this going very nicely with richer red and white meats. A slow-roast belly of pork with herbs sounds about right. Stockists:The Corkscrew, Dublin; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare, Co Kerry; John R's, Listowel, Co Kerry; Sheridan's Cheesemongers, Dublin and Galway; www.thestoreroom.ie

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina 2006, 13.5%, €14.50.This was the star of a tasting of Italian wines a few months ago. Nobody could believe the price. Lovely, quite elegant dark cherry fruits, supple and very easy to drink. This is the kind of wine that should be in every Italian restaurant throughout the nation. Stockists:On The Grapevine, Dalkey (www.onthegrapevine); Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Cabot and Co, Westport, Co Mayo, (www.cabotandco.com); Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge, Co Galway; Wine Room, 1 Pery Square, Limerick (www.oneperysquare.com); Castlebar Florists, Spencer Street, Castlebar, Co Mayo.

Principe Corsini Le Corte Chianti Classico 2006, 13%, €20.95.Lovely, clean dark cherry fruits and wonderful tangy finish. A wine that improves with every sip; try it with grilled or roast red meat. Stockists:www.atasteofitaly.ie; Wicklow Wine Company; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Michael's Wines Food, Mount Merrion; Terroirs, Donnybrook; Partridge's, Gorey, Co Wexford.