Let's put a stop to it

WINE:Cork, plastic, screw cap or glass – the debate continues. But wouldn't it be better to focus on the actual wines?

WE EUROPEANS TIE ourselves in knots trying to control our winemakers. Our intentions are usually good. The various governments and the EU want to protect us from fraudulent bottles, although more often the aim is to protect the producer. Frequently, however, our wine laws only serve to obstruct the production of quality wines. It is often the most forward-looking, innovative winemakers who suffer, while the fools survive.

Under current Italian wine law, all wine labelled under the Classico denomination must be bottled under cork. In some regions, such as Valpolicella, the term Classico means very little; in others, such as Chianti and Soave, it can mean a lot, defining specific sub-regions capable of producing the best wines. Regular readers will know I am a huge fan of Pieropan wines. The basic Soave Classico is a superb, elegant wine, and the single vineyard La Rocca is one of the finest white wines of Italy. Apparently Pieropan was the first to bottle a wine under the name Soave back in the 1930s, so Nino Pieropan was at first reluctant to abandon the quality designation. However, for some years he has been convinced that screw cap (also known as Stelvin) offers a far better guarantee of quality for his wines. “We’ve taken this step to improve the quality of the wine drunk by the final consumer,” he argues. “Our wine is unoaked, and its charm lies in its perfume and elegance, so we need a closure that captures these characters in the bottle.”

The Pieropan 2008 vintage was bottled under both cork and screw cap, the latter exclusively for the Irish, UK and Australian markets. Because of this, the screw-cap wine can only be labelled Soave, while the other is Soave Classico; same wine, different label. In a rather good publicity stunt, the Irish importer recently sent me a bottle of each to try. Not surprisingly, there was a lot of similarity between the two bottles; however, tasted blind several times, the bottle under screw cap tasted fresher and more aromatic than its counterpart bottled with a cork.

The New World has far less wine law (some of it is only there to satisfy the EU), and winemakers there have far greater flexibility. In addition to corks, they use crew caps and plastic corks. Until recently Green Point – one of the leading sparkling wines of Australia – was topped with a crown seal (or beer-bottle cap). Sadly this will revert to standard cork shortly; although accepted in the UK and Australia, the rest of Europe took a more conservative view.

Henschke is one of the great names of Australian winemaking, best known for its sumptuous red wines, produced from dry-farmed vineyards miles away from anyone else in the Eden Valley. Their top wine, Hill of Grace, from a vineyard opposite a beautiful Lutheran church, is revered almost as much as that other Aussie icon, Grange. Sadly, such wines are always in demand by the super-rich, even in a recession. Expect to pay about €400 for a bottle of Hill of Grace. Smarter buyers go for the Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz, which seems quite reasonable by comparison at €80. Stephen and Prue Henschke also make a range of very stylish white wines, including a very attractive Pinot Gris and the Julius Riesling. A mature vintage of this wine convinced a Francophile friend that Australia can produce great wine. Although under cork, it had aged perfectly, and was a magnificent specimen of mature Riesling – light and still refreshing, but with a haunting bouquet and palate of honeyed green fruits, beeswax and toasted almonds.

The Henschkes are both critics of cork as a closure; it is not just the danger of faulty or “corked” wines, but also the lack of consistency as the wine ages. Stephen Henschke bottled 10 per cent of the 2002 Mount Edelstone under screw cap, and, looking at the results so far, feels sure that cork is not the answer. They are not completely happy with the screw cap, either. Having trained in Germany, perhaps it is not surprising that he now favours a new German closure, the Vino-lok. This glass stopper is almost the perfect solution. Naturally there are no corked wines, it is 100 per cent effective in preventing oxidation, and is both easy to operate (some people have difficulty opening screw caps) and stylish to boot. The only disadvantage is price; the Vino-lok costs as much as the very best cork, so it can only really be used on the most expensive wines.

I have become a little tired of the cork versus screw cap debate. Perhaps it’s because wine dorks sometimes spend more time arguing about this than the merits of the wine they are drinking. I hate plastic corks, which are difficult to extract, and even harder to put back in. Certainly, a percentage of wines under cork are faulty, but the problem seems to be improving in recent years. I have no problem with screw cap or Vino-lok, and have been assured that they allow wine to age perfectly.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Pieropan Soave 2008, 12.5%, €17.99.Delicate floral nose with perfectly balanced, subtle green fruits, and plenty of refreshing acidity. This would go perfectly with plainly grilled white fish, such as haddock or sole. Stockists:On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeney's, Hart's Corner; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park; Red Island, Skerries; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Wine Boutique, Donnybrook Fair; and Eno Wines, IFSC and Monkstown.

Julius Riesling 2006 Eden Valley, 12.5%, €29.99.The 2006 is still an infant, but the excellent balance and length point to a bright future. Crisp, dry and very mineral, with a slight waxiness, and plenty of lime and lemon zest. Possibly a bit challenging on its own for some; try with crab or mussels. Stockists:Corkscrew, Chatham Street; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Thomas Woodberry, Middle Street, Galway.

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett 2005, Rheingau, 11.5%, €23.99.Bottled under Vino-lok. Light but intense honey toast and lemon in a glorious wine. There was hand-to-hand combat in the Wilson household over the last glass. A perfect, very posh, aperitif or a partner for fish. We had ours with baked haddock. Stockists:O'Briens

McWilliam's Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, South-East Australia, 13.5%, €14.99.Sealed with a cork, but none the worse for it. This is a very stylish red, and deserves wider distribution. Very pleasing medium-bodied cherry and cassis fruits, with a nice touch of acidity, and a rounded finish. The fruit has some real quality, and isn't smothered in oak. A good partner for most red and white meats; I would try it with some lamb. Stockists:Texaco Service Station, Foxrock; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin; Next Door, Blessington; The Hole in the Wall, Glasnevin; The Drinks Store, Manor Street, Dublin; Serpentine Express, Ballsbridge, Dublin

Two Under €12

Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde 2008, Portugal, 11.5%, €11.99.Vinho Verde, from the far north of Portugal, is perfect summer wine: light, sometimes a little fizzy and refreshing, like a spritzer with attitude. This is a very attractive example, with zingy zesty lemon fruits and a crisp, dry finish. A good aperitif out in the sun, or with plain shellfish. Stockists:Matson's, Cork; Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Susan and Alan's Kitchen Pantry, Oranmore; The Alley, Cloyne, Co Cork; The Magic Carpet, Dublin 8; Pine Croft, Cork; Lilac Wines, Dublin 3.

Borgo Selene Catarrato-Inzolia 2008, Sicily, 11.5%, €9.99.The last of the summer wine? A very moreish light white wine made from two Sicilian grapes. Ripe, bouncy peach and pear fruits with plenty of lively citrus. Perfect everyday drinking before the meal or with salads. Stockists:Red Island Wines, Skerries; Shields' Off-Licence, Drumcondra; Red Nose Wines, Clonmel; Eugene's Kenmare; Martin's, Fairview; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend.