Happy anniversary

This week, four very different wine importers, all of whom celebrate a birthday this year

Marks Spencer, nationwide

Marks Spencer first opened its doors in Ireland some 30 years ago in Mary Street. That remained the sole Irish branch until 1988 when Grafton Street became the second branch. There are now 18 stores with a further two to open later this year.

Marks Spencer also celebrates its 125th anniversary in the UK this year, although wine did not feature until 1973.

In wine terms, Marks Spencer has an enviable reputation. Unlike other multiples, all wines are own-label, sourced by a team of seven buyers, including two full-time winemakers who advise producers. They have a reputation for very exacting standards.

Chris Murphy, who has been with MS for 35 years, is one of the wine-buying team. “We try to offer a comprehensive, credible range, from good value everyday swiggers to fine wines. We put more time into the less expensive wines because they are more difficult to source. Quality is always first. Quite honestly, we do not buy on price, and our customers recognise that. People aren’t daft.

“The thing about MS is that we don’t sell brands, and a lot of new world growth has been around branded wine. So, uniquely, a lot of our customers have remained loyal to Italy, France and Spain. With us, the appellations have almost become brands themselves. We are alleged to sell more Chablis, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Sancerre than any other retailer.”

I have always been a fan of MS wines because they dare to be different. Sure, they will have all the old favourites, reliable and reasonably priced. But on top of that they go out and source the quirky, the new, and the unexpected. At a recent tasting, they produced a real Lambrusco (Autentico, €11.29, if you want something really funky) a Pinot Noir rosé from Chile, and an Aussie Tempranillo. They are also the only supermarket to offer a decent range of German wines. Because they are less hidebound by price, they tend to deal with the better names in each wine region, and on a long-term basis, too. Most producers that I have talked to seem very happy with their relationship.

In terms of size, MS cannot compete with the larger multiples; however, it does have a loyal following amongst the middle classes. Of all the supermarkets, I reckon MS happens to have the best range of wines; not always the cheapest, but certainly very good value. My only gripe would be that the range in Ireland is a bit limited in comparison to the UK.

On the Grapevine, Dalkey

On the Grapevine is a shining example to all who want to run a neighbourhood wine shop; an interesting range of wines, reasonable prices, a few foodie titbits, and knowledgeable, friendly staff. It seems simple, but few seem to manage it. Husband and wife team Pamela and Gabriel Cooney opened a decade ago, on Patrick’s Day 1999. Both have marketing backgrounds, Pamela with Radisson Hotels, Gabriel with Green Isle Foods (Donegal Catch, to be precise). “A wine shop,” says Cooney, “was a pipedream we both had, but we never really planned it. We saw an advert for a shop in Dalkey, we had a look around, and couldn’t see any other wine shop. It just seemed like a good idea. I spent my life putting together business plans for Green Isle, so getting the bank to agree was easy. Then, I guess, we had no reason not to do it. We both agreed if we don’t do it now, we will always regret it.” Pamela started first, Gabriel joining her six months later. “That was the scariest part – no salary for the first time,” says Cooney.

“What really surprised us was how little we knew. We had read a lot, and done a few courses, but it was a case of the more you know, the more you don’t know. We had a very deep immersion. We were also surprised by how much our customers knew.”

Two years after setting up shop, they began importing directly themselves, then two years later joined Liam and Sinead Cabot, of Cabot Co, to set up a wholesale company supplying other retailers and restaurants. “We have tried all the angles. For us the key thing is importing directly – it gives us control of distribution and an extra interest and knowledge. It makes it all more interesting.”

The other vital element is staff. “We have always been very lucky with our staff. We have had a number of very interested, capable women; this is very important in Dalkey. We know most of our clients by name, and myself, Pam or Carole (the shop manager), one of us is always there, not some part-timer who nobody knows.” Everyone would love to have a shop like this in their locality. The range is not huge, but there are plenty of little gems in every price range, lovingly selected by people who really know their wines.

Le Caveau, Kilkenny

From a small, unprepossessing shop tucked away to the side of a large car park in Kilkenny, Frenchman Pascal Rossignol runs one of the finest wine businesses in Ireland. Inside, the shop is crammed with an amazing selection of wine, most of it French, including a lot from Burgundy, but all of it from small artisan producers.

Pascal was born and brought up in Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy. Before embarking on a career in the hotel and restaurant trade, (where he met his Irish wife, Geraldine) he worked for three years with his uncle, Joseph Roty, one of the great names in Gevrey-Chambertin. This is an advantage when buying Burgundy, where having the right contacts makes all the difference. It probably also helps that Pascal is a modest but intelligent man, with a real passion for wine.

In 1999, he and his wife decided to open a wine shop in Kilkenny, close enough to Dublin, but offering the benefits of a rural lifestyle. “We had in mind to bring in a selection of wines we liked, without thinking too much about what was selling in Ireland at the time. So we ended up with lots of Burgundies and wines from the south-west – we have up to seven different Cahors from three producers!”

Their selection from this part of France includes some of my own personal favourites, wines that have featured on these pages. They also have wines from the Jura and other lesser-know regions. “We used to run tastings in the shop every Saturday which helped us understand what Irish people liked and why.”

They now ship directly 180 wines from 75 producers, as well as stocking a well-selected range from other importers. Le Caveau wines are also available through a number of retail outlets, or through their website, www.lecaveau.ie.

Terroirs, Donnybrook

Tongues were set wagging when Terroirs opened for business some 15 years ago. The Celtic Tiger had not yet really got going, and here was a boutique shop offering an amazing array of the very finest (and most expensive) wines.

Françoise first arrived in Ireland in 1991. Trailing around various off-licences, conducting tastings of her brother-in-law’s Muscadet, she bumped into Seán Gilley, then working for Verlings off-licence in Clontarf. A cross-channel romance ensued, a romance that was severely tested when Françoise moved to the Napa Valley for two years. Seán reckons he flew over to visit 11 times during those two years, so obviously he was hooked.

Françoise finally moved to Ireland in 1993, and Terroirs opened the following November. “We wanted to move away from a full off-licence and create a boutique shop selling only the very best,” Seán says. “We have kept that focus since then, and never given in to the temptation to serve coffee and sandwiches to keep cash-flow going.”

Most of the wines are sourced directly, 70 per cent of them from France. “We have a very close relationship with every supplier we work with, he says. “Our customers know there is a person behind every product, and that is the reason for our success.”

There is a very tempting selection of wine here, particularly from the Loire Valley, Françoise’s home territory. It is more than a wine shop though. There is a selection of excellent artisan charcuterie, chocolates and other gourmet products, as well as glassware.

Seán is confident that they will ride out the current economic gloom. “It is a hard graft at the moment. We have increased our range of less expensive wines, particularly in the €10-€22 range. We have also developed new customers. Our e-mail launches have been very successful. It is all about keeping your name out there at all times.”

One last birthday

Ashford Castle in Cong, Co Mayo, will celebrate its 70th birthday this May, and is offering various special packages to celebrate the event. See www.ashford.ie for details.

WINES OF THE WEEK

MARKS SPENCER

Marks Spencer Tupangato Chardonnay 2007, Argentina, 14%, €10.49. A great example of how MS works with the top producers. This very nicely-balanced Chardonnay with its subtle vanilla and rich peach and apple fruits comes from Nicolas Catena, one of the leading names in Mendoza. Try it with richer fish dishes, chicken and even pork. Stockist: Marks Spencer.

ON THE GRAPEVINE

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 13.5% €26.50. “Poliziano were one of the very first wineries we started dealing with and we really like their approach because they have their eye on quality at all times,” says Gabriel Cooney. “The pricing, while not cheap, is fair for the quality of wine. This is one of the very best producers in Tuscany; the wine is a very polished, modern style of Vino Nobile, with ripe, dark cherry fruit, well balanced French oak, firm tannins and fresh acidity with superb balance and length. All that is good about wine from Tuscany in a single bottle. If you cannot quite rise to that, they also do a fantastic Rosso di Montepulciano at €17.50.” Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot Co, Westport; Liston’s Camden Street; World Wide Wines, Waterford; One Pery Square, Limerick.

LE CAVEAU

Maranges 1er Cru Fussieres 2005, Jean-Claude Regnaudot, €21.65-€22.96. “This has everything that I love in wine,” says Pascal Rossignol. “An expressive nose, primarily of dark cherry and red berries, some earthy flavours, a hint of game; all hugely enticing. The palate is slightly muted but fresh and perfectly ripe, multi-layered and textured.

“It is a wine that begs for food as all real wine should do – maybe pheasant, grilled beef, or cheeses. The wine ends with firm (but manageable) tannins and good acidity.” Stockists: Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Liston’s, Camden Street; Avoca food halls, and Le Caveau, Limerick.

TERROIRS

Mas de Cynanaque Plein Grès Saint Chinian 2006 14% €14.95. “Mas de Cynanaque is owned by two young winemakers, husband and wife team, Xavier and Violaine de Franssu,” says Seán Gilley. The vineyards are old, some dating back to 1911. They will be certified organic next year.

“The Cuvée Plein Grès is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan. It is an incredibly ripe and spicy wine, bursting with dark chocolate. The nose is cocoa, cherry and blackberry. A powerful yet elegant wine that is absolutely stunning with meat and casseroles.” Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4.