Wine: Everything’s coming up rosé

W ith the Ireland France rugby match taking place next Saturday (kick-off 17.00 hours), I suspect restaurants in Dublin will afterwards be heaving with a curious mix of boisterous rugby fans and quiet courting couples celebrating St Valentine’s Day. Tables will be at a premium and it might not be the atmosphere for romance. (For the Irish male, there is the danger that your intended might be whisked away by an attractive Frenchman.) Even if you are a novice in the kitchen, this might be the year to take courage and cook a simple light meal at home, accompanied by a glass or two of decent wine. If you are intending to go to the match, a word of advice: turning up having consumed a few pints and possibly a burger on the way home is not a good way to start a romantic evening.

If you intend having an intimate dinner for two in your house, I would recommend something light in body and alcohol to drink. A bottle of Champagne or other sparkling wine is a great way to get things rolling. I came across bottles of pink Champagne in both Marks & Spencer and James Nicholson in Crosgar. It depends on the food, but I would look at following this with a light-bodied, silky Pinot Noir. Chile produces the least expensive versions that can be very tasty; look out for Leyda, Cono Sur, Carmen, Secano and Errazuriz. New Zealand Pinot Noir is a little more expensive but can be very good indeed, with Martinborough and Central Otago the best regions. I would also recommend the de Bertoli Dixon’s Creek Pinot Noir from Australia (€32 from independents). Burgundy is the home of Pinot and still makes the best examples; however it won’t be cheap.

An alternative option is rosé; it may be a cliché but things pink are certainly associated with Saint Valentine’s day. You won’t find a huge selection in our shops at this time of year, but look out for Provence rosés – the height of fashion at the moment.

What could be more romantic than a Brangelina rosé made on the Provençal estate owned by Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt? Unlike some celebrity wines, this is actually a serious wine, made by the Perrin family, who make some of the best wines in the nearby Rhône Valley. If money is tight, you could try a very brave retro move and serve a bottle of Mateus Rosé (€12-ish per bottle) providing your partner has a sense of humour.

If pink is popular, so too are things sparkling. The obvious choice for Valentine’s is something that combines the two. Sparkling rosés should not be dismissed as frivolous, although a little frivolity on St Valentine’s Day is often a good thing. Some are quite serious wines, and not all are cheap. The most expensive versions of both Dom Perignon and Louis Roederer Cristal are both rosé. Be warned though; these wines sell for up to €700 a bottle. Other houses, including Deutz, Taittinger and Bollinger, produce a luxury cuvée of rosé as well as their regular non-vintage bottling.

Obviously there is a demand for very expensive sparkling rosés. But what should us mere mortals drink? Prosecco can no longer be called rosé, as it is made from the white Glera grape variety. However, there is no shortage of pink Italian sparklers from the Veneto region.

Cava is another option (M&S Prestige Cava Rosado for €13.29 is delicious) and there are plenty from the New World too. I have recommended Jacob’s Creek before, and would add to that the well-made fruit-filled Griffith Park Rosé, Jansz Rosé or Graham Beck Rosé (all around €25-€30). If you want to offer your loved-one something a little different, the English sparkling Wiston Estate Rosé (around €60 from independents, including Le Caveau in Kilkenny) is delicious.

Both Champagne and sparkling wine go really well with all kinds of lighter foods, including mild curries and Asian dishes, as does still rosé, so a bottle of either with a few nibbles, a ready meal, or a posh takeaway might be the best option if you cannot stand the thought of cooking.

Of the non-vintage rosé Champagnes, my favourites include Deutz, Thiénot, Billecart-Salmon and Ruinart. Expect to pay anything from €50-80 a bottle for these. Worth it? If your beloved loves Champagne then obviously the answer is yes. If not the same sum will buy you a very decent bottle of wine including that red Burgundy mentioned above.