Three delicious dishes with a whiff of wintry smoke

I love food imbued with a gentle smoke. It always makes winter more tolerable. But I avoid anything over-smoked – it just gives off unpleasant thuggish vibes. The smoke being over-dominant in a dish can ruin my day.

I have quite a few food heroes. Some are chefs and some are food writers. The common thread is their love of simple food. They are also great communicators. One such is food writer Diana Henry. I have all of her many books. She always brings something new and makes me realise how much more I still have to learn about food.

One of her books, Salt, Sugar, Smoke, is a particular favourite. She takes the reader on a journey around the extremities of Europe with her recipes, to places I’ve never been to, not even in the curtailed mind of a chef trained in classical French food. I relish those journeys. The atmospheric photos transport you. In my mind I’m devouring a belly-warming stew while snatching glimpses of an icy landscape through the frostbitten windows of a winter cabin.

The first dish I have created this week is a riff on a kedgeree. I’ve just substituted the rice for sheets of pasta and layering the whole thing up like a lasagne. I’m not using a lot of fish – it’s a flavouring for the rest of the dish. This can be made ahead of time, then baked when you need it. It’s perfect for the freezer, if you want to get ahead of yourself.

The next dish is a version of baked cheese. It’s for a niche market of cheese and turnip lovers, and deliciously off-piste. I’m using Cavanbert from Corleggy Cheese. Use a ripe brie or camembert if you can’t find it. Be brave, try it. They go together like a dream.

This frittata is very tasty. The cabbage might seem an unusual addition, but I’d stick cabbage into anything, given a chance. A little more horseradish, mixed with crème fraîche, would be a wonderful accompaniment. The dish has a sweet gentle smoke, just how I like it.

Recipe: Leek and smoked haddock lasagne with curry spices