Food

Rhubarb is surprisingly good with shellfish

JP McMahon: Once considered a medicine, try it as a delicious compote

Homemade rhubarb compote. Photograph: iStock

JP McMahon's face
JP McMahon
Mon Feb 21 2022 - 06:00

Rhubarb demonstrates the truly global power of food over many thousands of years. However, it may surprise you to know that for most of its existence, rhubarb was used as a medicine rather than as a food. The Greek and Romans used the roots to alleviate, or at least try to alleviate, many ailments, including constipation.

It is only in the past 200 years that rhubarb has emerged as a culinary ingredient for desserts and wine. Indeed, a rhubarb craze occurred in the 19th century due to the accidental discovery of how to grow forced rhubarb. Yorkshire, with its rhubarb triangle, subsequently came to dominate production. In the early 20th century, 90 per cent of the world’s forced winter rhubarb came from there. Forced rhubarb is produced by growing the vegetable outside for two years. The exposure to frost toughens the roots,before the plant is moved into dark “forcing sheds”.

Once in these sheds, heat is applied which causes the stalks to grow quickly in search of light. This quick growth produces a rhubarb that is soft, sweet and tart all at once, delicately vivid in its white and redness. Forced rhubarb cooks extremely quickly. Indeed, it is so tender it can be eaten raw. Try it dipped in sugar.

Though we rarely think of it, the vegetable pairs wonderfully with shellfish. Mussels sing when finished with a little diced rhubarb. Lobster, clams and sea urchins will all be elevated by its sweet tartness. Perhaps a little pickled rhubarb for your soused mackerel or smoked salmon?

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How to make rhubarb and dillisk compote

This compote can be used with cured meat and cheese, especially creamy cheeses such as brie or goat’s cheese. In a small pot, place 350g of diced red onion with 300ml apple cider vinegar, two teaspoons of dillisk and 300g of brown sugar. Bring to the boil and simmer until the onions are nearly soft. Add 750g of diced rhubarb in 2cm chunks and cook for a few minutes until soft.

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