Paul Flynn: Monkfish and chorizo to celebrate being back in the game

An easy summery fish dish, bacon ribs with a pimped up sweetcorn side, and a gently spiced goat’s cheese and chickpea dip

So it has all taken off like a rocket, from zero to me running around like a headless chicken, as if the past six months had never happened. I was rusty, but I snapped back into it. We are very busy, so I’m not complaining. People are clamouring to be looked after and are generally good-humoured.

The intersection just outside our restaurant resembles Shibuya crossing in Tokyo. It can take an inordinate amount of time to get to our guest rooms, which normally can be reached in under 60 seconds. What a transformation from when we first opened up all those years ago.

I’ve done my first cookery class in over a year in the school. It felt strange, but good. The people had waited patiently through all the unavoidable cancellations. The course was seafood and sauces, possibly my favourite course to teach.

Summertime by the sea is all about the fish. I simply can’t get my head around people who don’t love it – look at all they’re missing. I love bold flavours, not over-the-top like a boorish alpha male, just assertive and true. You have to be in no doubt what you’re eating. But pleasure is the goal, of course.

READ MORE

I have to watch my use of chorizo or I would put it in everything. Here there seemed to be no better partner for the robust monkfish. It’s an easy dish. A little dollop of mashed potato would be perfect with it, or some rice to keep it lighter.

I love bacon ribs. Here I’ve brushed them with mustard, then dusted with breadcrumbs, enhanced with a drizzle of maple syrup, another favourite of mine.

The sweetcorn is a pilfered idea. I saw a mouth-watering photograph on Instagram from Chicc, an amazing food truck in Dublin. I spent what seemed like hours trying to figure out what was on it, and in the end I guessed. I’ll have to pay them a visit.

The last dish this week is a hybrid tapenade. The hot spiced chickpeas elevate it to something much more than a dip. It’s fun to play around with your spices. I’m using za’atar for a floral touch and cayenne for some heat.

Recipe: Baked monkfish, with smoked tomato, rosemary and chorizo

Recipe: Crisp rack of bacon ribs, messy and delicious sweetcorn

Recipe: Goat’s cheese and olive tapenade, hot spiced chickpeas