Food File: Provenance is priority at food writers’ awards

Provenance is always paramount when the members of the Irish Food Writers’ Guild meet to decide who and what will be the recipients of the group’s annual awards. This year’s winners of the 21st awards excel in this respect, and are among the best conceived, produced and marketed food products in the country, and the most hard working and visionary producers.

“As the consumers’ knowledge and interest in food provenance grows, so too does the need for complete transparency on the part of the producer. The stronger the story behind the brand and the more that is known about its origin, the greater the connection between the consumer and the product,” said Lizzie Gore-Grimes, chairwoman of the IFWG, at this week’s awards presentations.

“All of our winners are flying the flag for food provenance this year. They come to the market with products that are real, authentic and bursting with honest-to-goodness quality. The quiet success of these seven winners is in no small part due to the richness of their produce, the strength of their story and the passion of the people behind them.

“What may initially have started as a labour of love for our award winners is now reaping the rewards today. All of our winners are wonderful ambassadors for Irish food, and I am certain that they will remain key players in maintaining Ireland’s enviable reputation on an international stage.”

The first award was made to On the Pig’s Back, Isabelle Sheridan’s range of pates, terrines and rillettes made in Douglas, Co Cork. At the awards lunch on Wednesday, hosted by Derry Clarke of L’Ecrivain restaurant in Dublin, who devised dishes to incorporate the winning products, On the Pig’s Back duck and orange terrine and duck liver pate were served.

Skeaghanore Farm Fresh Ducks, produced by Eugene and Helena Hickey on the shores of Roaring Water Bay in West Cork, were also singled out for an award for their quality and were served as breast and confit with carrot and apple.

Fiona and Malcolm Falconer are regulars on the farmers’ market scene throughout Ireland with their Wild About multi-coloured stall and rainbow hued jars of preserves, pickles, cordials and chutneys made from wild and native Irish foods grown or foraged on or near their Co Wexford permaculture garden. Their nettle pesto was served as a cream sauce in a dish of sage gnocchi and garlic puree.

David and Martha Burns took this year’s drink award for their Richmount Elderflower Cordial, made in Co Longford and served at the awards as a granita.

Siobhan and Paul Lawless of The Foods of Athenry took the environmental award for the steps they have taken in the production process for their range of free-from foods. As well as devising biodegradable packaging, the couple have planted an organic apple orchard of native varieties and established a colony of bees to pollinate the trees.

A lifetime achievement award was presented to Veronica Molloy of Crossogue Preserves, which is in its 20th year in production in Co Tipperary. Despite growing demand for her preserves, curds and jams, they are still made in batches of not more than 20 jars and are free from preservatives and additives. Chef Clarke used Molloy’s Irish coffee curd in a mousse with feuilletine and gold leaf and served it with Crossogue lemon curd ice cream.

Taste Council member Birgitta Curtin of Burren Smokehouse, who despite her Swedish heritage has become a tireless champion of Irish food, was presented with a Guild award for her notable contribution to Irish Food. Burren Smokehouse smoked salmon was served with Wild About ginger beets and pickled cucumber.