What to look for from Chilean wines

WINE:Best known for its cheap and cheerful ranges, there are far more interesting wines from Chile for those willing to spend a euro or two more

CHILE OFFERS THE wine-drinker just about everything, but somehow doesn’t always get the respect it deserves. Possibly wine makers there try to do too much, following every new trend in the market. It is not easy to create classics when you change focus every few years. Chile also has an image problem. It’s great for cheap and cheerful, but they have found it difficult to get consumers to trade up a few euros. There are plenty of highlights worth paying for, though. In my view, Chile can make very good Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, and decent Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Does it need to be world-class? Not at the prices it is sold at.

A great many of Chile’s cheaper wines will have Central Valley on the label. Usually this means the wine is made from grapes sourced from virtually all of Chile’s vineyards. While blending the best wines from a large area can work in theory, frequently it means that the producer has bought the cheapest grapes he can find and created an all-purpose blend that will not offend anybody, but will certainly lack real character, and usually class as well. A wine made with grapes from a single region is not necessarily better, but will at least show some character, and usually a bit more quality too.

So what are the best regions of Chile? The Maipo region, just south of Santiago, is known for producing some of Chile’s best Cabernet and Merlot, with competition provided by Aconcagua further north. Going south, the climate gets warmer. Colchagua is gaining a reputation for some excellent Carmènere and Syrah too. Three areas due west of Santiago have been making waves with a more elegant style of wine over the past decade. Thanks to their cooler climate (they are close to the Pacific Ocean) Casablanca, Leyda and San Antonio are now recognised as the best source of Sauvignon Blanc, a more refreshing style of Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

Looking to the future, all of the above regions will probably continue to enjoy the best reputation. If I was in my local supermarket, looking for something different, I would probably look at what Syrah was on offer. Chile has still not gained due recognition for the quality of its Syrah. Three valleys to the far north of Santiago, Elqui, Limari and Choapa, are probably the best source, but there are plenty of good examples from a great many places.

Lastly, Riesling is not widely grown, but there are a few decent inexpensive examples, the best coming from Bío-Bío, another cool climate to the far south, and I was very taken with the Casa Marin featured below.

Despite being one of the best markets for Chilean wines, in Ireland we lose out by only buying cheap ones. Sure, the inexpensive wines hit a price point and answer a need for inexpensive gluggers to keep us going in these tough times. But by spending a euro or two more, we could have access to some really interesting wines that deliver value that is hard to beat.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Viña Leyda Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Leyda Valley, 13.5%, €10.50From the coolest climate in Chile, a deliciously fresh, crisp, dry white with a lovely backbone of clean acidity, and plenty of green fruits to back it up. A great aperitif, or with fish or salads. Stockists: Next Door branches in Racefield Centre, Raheen, Kilkee, Salthill, Sundrive, and Rathangan; McHugh's, Kilbarrack; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Wicklow Arms, Degany; Red Island, Skerries; O'Donovan's, Cork; Paul's, Donegal; La Touche, Glasnevin; Mac's, Limerick; The Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Lord Mayor, Swords.

Casa Marin Miramar Vineyard Riesling 2007, San Antonio Valley, 13.5%, €19.99San Antonio Valley lies right on the Pacific Coast, close to Leyda. The few wines that are produced are wonderfully individual, a unique blend of power and flavour. Casa Marin is an all-female operation, making some great wines. The cool climate of San Antonio really shows through in the clean refreshing nose of green apples, rich palate of baked apples tinged with minerals and very long, zesty, dry finish. This would be great with all manner of fish and seafood. Stockists: The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; straffanwines.ie.

Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2006, Casablanca, 14%, €13.99I tried this against one of my favourite Mâcons, and it showed very well. Mature, broad, lightly buttery mango fruits, with just enough acidity to keep it interesting and a very decent finish. This would go very nicely with a roast chicken. Stockists: Widely available through supermarkets and off-licences at wildly different prices. I bought mine from la Touche Wines in Greystones at the above price. Other retailers were pricing it at €18.99. Tesco has it at €19.99, primed, I suspect, to be sold at half-price sometime soon.

De Martino Legado Estate Syrah 2007, Choapa Valley, 14.5%, €16.50Big and powerful wine with dark fruits, rich and fairly concentrated, a little bit fiery, with plenty of tannins on the finish. I would decant an hour before dinner, serving it with a roast or game dish. Stockists: Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh; Redmond's, Ranelagh; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Thomas's, Foxrock; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock; O'Donovan's, Cork.

Cousiño Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reserva 2008, Maipo Valley, 14%, €13.95-€14.95An estate-grown wine from a family-owned winery in the Maipo Valley. Mint and eucalyptus on the nose, with powerful cassis and dark fruits, overlaid with plenty of spicy oak. Riper than a Bordeaux Cabernet, but less rich than an Australian version, this is a big red that calls out for a nice Sunday roast. Stockists: The Parting Glass, Ennniskerry; Sweeney's Wine Merchants, Glasnevin; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; The Mill Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh; Deveney's Dundrum; The Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road and Blanchardstown; Wicklow Wine Company, Wicklow; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Redmond's, Ranelagh.

Casa Silva Carmenere Reserva 2008, Colchagua Valley, 14%,€15A slight pepperiness, rather than the green herbaceousness that plagues many Carmenere, with good firm dark plum fruits and a very decent finish. There is some spicy oak too, but the fruit stands up well. Drink with casseroled red meats. Stockists: Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh; Redmond's, Ranelagh; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Thomas's, Foxrock; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McCabe's, Mount Merrion; The Gables, Foxrock and O'Donovan's, Cork.