Regional rustic reds

FOLLOWING ON FROM last week’s look at inexpensive European white wines, today we turn our attention to the reds. I have always had a weakness for these wines, having cut my wine teeth on cheap Bordeaux, Languedoc and Italian reds.

These were true peasant wines, sometimes a little bit rough at the edges and not overtly fruity. From warmer regions they tended towards the gutsy and rustic, whereas cooler climate areas had a tangy, refreshing acidity.

Many had a tannic edge that needed food to bring out their best. Sipping wines they weren’t, but I still find them very satisfying, when I can find them. However, times have changed. These days you are far more likely to come across sleek, silky, fruit-filled wines without the rough edges, as modern winemaking has improved standards in most areas.

Every European region has its own indigenous grape varieties. Spain is full of cheap, gutsy reds, the best-known of which are made from Tempranillo and Garnacha, but also look out for Monastrell, Bobal, Mencia and many others. The hottest areas currently are Jumilla, Yecla, Cariñena, Campo de Borja, Valencia, La Mancha, Navarra, Alicante . . .

The list is endless. Portugal has always trodden its own independent path when it comes to grape varieties. Most are still relatively unknown, but the quality of winemaking has improved out of all recognition. If I had to chose one area for real value it would have to be the Alentejo, although Estremadura would run it close. Alentejo wines tend to be full-bodied and powerful - perfect for winter stews.

Italy has an amazing treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties, with every area having not just one, but usually a handful of local specialities. You can still pick up very drinkable Valpolicella and Barbera at under €12, but nowadays there are plenty of good, gutsy reds from Puglia and Sicily, and the ever-popular Abruzzo.

Lastly to France. Languedoc is one of the first areas bargain-hunters should seek out. Once again, the quality of winemaking has shot up in recent years, and Corbières, Minervois, Saint-Chinian, Coteaux du Languedoc can all offer great value. The standard blend is Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, and the style tends more towards the full-bodied. The other region worth looking at is southwest France. If you are prepared to experiment, areas such as Madiran, Bergerac, Frontonnais, Côtes de Marmandais, Iroulégy and Gaillac all offer brisk wines full of character.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Rare Vineyards Carignan, Vieilles Vignes 2009, €9.99 (currently on sale at €6)Often derided in the past, the Carignan grape variety can produce some excellent, ageworthy wines. The Rare Vineyards doesn't quite reach those heights, but is a ridiculously cheap glugger of a red with soft, sweet, ripe fruits. Stockist: Superquinn

Castaño, Monastrell, Yecla 2008, 13.5%, €11.99At one stage most wines from Murcia were fairly tough and tannic. However, better producers have now toned down the dry tannins and increased the fruit. This is a great example: rich, rounded and supple, dark fruits, with a lovely smooth finish. Serve with red meats. Stockists: The Vineyard, Galway; Eugene's, Kenmare: Next Door, Myles Creek; Florrie's, Tramore; Next Door, Enfield: JM Vintners, Rush; Martin's, Fairview; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.

Viña Constantina Rioja Crianza 2005, 13%, €11.93The dangers of tasting rather than drinking: I tried this blind in a line-up of wines where it seemed a little light and even weedy. But later that night with dinner it was delicious; light, elegant strawberry and blackberry fruits with an appealing leafy maturity. Try it with chicken dishes Stockist: winesdirect.ie

Art de Vivre Saint Chinian 2008, Réserve de Gérard Bertrand, 13.5%, €8.99This combines a rustic touch with some attractive mellow dark fruits, and a smooth finish. Perfect for warding off the autumnal blues. Drink with stews and grilled red meats.Stockists: Dunnes Stores

Domaine Grange Dapot 2007, Corbières, 13%, €10.95A textbook example of modern Languedoc. Medium-bodied and smooth, with captivating, opulent, smooth dark fruits, and plenty of length. A great all-rounder for the coming winter months, at a great price. Stockists: Marley Wine Shop, Rathfarnham; The Good Food Gallery, Kilcullen; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin 2; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin 1; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Gibney's, Malahide; 64 Wine, Glasthule

Monte Da Ravasqueira 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, 14.5%, €11.99Made from a mass of local grape varieties, including Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Trincadeira, as well as some Syrah and Petit Verdot, this is a lovely big, rounded red with plenty of stuffing. Smooth, full-bodied and full of dense black fruits. Serve with grilled red meats. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 1; O'Brien's Wines; Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; D Six, Harold's Cross; The Gourmet Bank, Churchtown; Morton's, Ranelagh; Fresh outlets; Marlay Wine Shop, Rathfarnham: Sweeney's, Harts Corner, Dublin 9; Red Island, Skerries: The Coachhouse, Ballinteer; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend

BEER OF THE WEEK

Williams Brothers IPA, 5%, €2.89 for a 50cl bottleNot the most aggressive India pale ale, but it does have plenty of refreshing lemon and grapefruit, with a pleasant light hoppiness and a touch of malt too.