More Gwyneth, less Dolly

WINEThe viticultural area of Australia is the same size as the whole of France, leading to very different styles of Chardonnay

AUSTRALIAN CHARDONNAY has come a long way in recent years. In conjunction with California, the Australians were responsible for the “Dolly Parton” style of Chardonnay, so called because they were full-bodied and up-front, with everything on show. These were rich, textured wines, often heavily-laden with toasty, nutty oak flavours, and sometimes distinct buttery notes. Subtle they weren’t, although the best were serious wines with an ability to age.

Buy an Australian Chardonnay now, however, and you are more likely to come across something more elegant, lean and streamlined, more Gwyneth Paltrow than Dolly Parton. Some critics argue that the wines lack soul. Others counter that they are far more consistent than their rivals in Burgundy.

At a recent Wine Australia Tasting, the major Irish event in the Aussie wine calendar, there was a blind tasting of 33 Chardonnays, with a few ringers thrown in from Burgundy, Spain and Chile to keep us on our toes. Overall, it was a fairly impressive line-up. At entry level, there were plenty of well-made, crisp, dry Chardonnays, some with a little oak, but most allowed the fruit to shine through. Some of those in the next section, under the “Regional Heroes” banner, did show some local character, and certainly some well-made cool-climate wines. At the top end, there were a few stunners, certainly a match for the Meursault that sneaked into the selection.

The first Chardonnay vines arrived in Australia in 1830, but the variety was not widely planted until the 1970s. Today, Australia produces more than 200 million bottles of Chardonnay. It is by some way the most popular white variety, but overall still lags behind Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Chardonnay is one of the few white-grape varieties that can be made in virtually every climate. Most of the early vines were planted in the hottest regions, and throughout the 1970s and early 1980s we became very familiar with the full-bodied, over-ripe wines, smothered in new oak – classic Dolly Partons. There were some good cool climate grapes, but these tended to be over-oaked, and lost any elegance they might have possessed. Well into the late 1980s and early 1990s, most were still looking for full ripeness, which led to some very alcoholic wines, often still barrel fermented and very oaky.

Winemakers are now looking for finer fruit from the cooler regions, to make more restrained, structured wines that have the ability to age. The viticultural area of Australia is the same size as the whole of France, and within that area lies a huge range of soils and climates, capable of producing very different styles of Chardonnay, from the big and full-bodied to the refined and elegant. Three of the wines are from regions with a reputation for Chardonnay. But all are far removed from the Dolly Parton style.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Eden Valley 2007, 13.5%, €16.99From the cooler Eden Valley, a wine that showed very well in my notes; a lightly textured creamy palate with some toast and plenty of zippy lime. A very stylish wine. Stockists:Donnybrook Fair; Clada Wines, Galway; Hole in the Wall, Glasnevin; Super Valu, Ashbourne; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Nash Wines, Newcastle West; Mac's Off-Licence, Limerick

Clairault Chardonnay, Margaret River 2007, 13%, €20Broad and rich nectarine and tropical fruits, showing some maturity, but it still has plenty of lemon zest, and a touch of oak. Classy, nicely crafted Chardonnay. Stockists:Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Hargadon's, Sligo; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Redmond's, Ranelagh; O'Donovan's, Cork

Omrah Unoaked Chardonnay 2009, Plantagenet, Great Southern, 13.5%, €15.99One of the very first unoaked Chardonnays made in Australia, this has very attractive plump, rich, tropical fruits, and plenty of good clean acidity to back it up. Stockists:Next Door, Enfield: Unwined, Swords; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Hole in the Wall, Glasnevin; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; thewineshop.ie; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Cellarmaster, Sandyford Business Park

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills 2008, 13.5%, €29.99This wine generally receives rave reviews and it shone at this tasting. An excellent, taut, young Chardonnay with everything in perfect balance. Stockists:Redmonds, Ranelagh; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Lilac Wines, Fairview; thewineshop.ie; Harvey Nichols, Dundrum; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Cellarmaster, Sandyford Business Park

TWO UNDER €12

Grant Burge Benchmark Chardonnay 2008, 14%, €9.99Plenty of zippy acidity, and good red apple fruits; possibly finishes a little over-ripe, but very tasty and well-made wine at a keen price. Stockists:Leading independents including Sweeney's, Glasnevin; McHugh's, Kilbarrack; Kelly's, Malahide; The Vintry, Rathgar; Kitty Kiernan's, Dublin 9 and selected Spar and Gala outlets

Jacob's Creek Classic Chardonnay, South Australia 2009, 13%, €8.61Normally very reliable, this wine certainly shone through. Good clean, zesty apple fruits, and a nice crisp finish. Stockists:Widely available

BEER OF THE WEEK

Helvic Gold Blonde Ale, Dungarvan, 4.9%, €2.99 for a 50cl bottleA world away from your typical tasteless lager, this is a really interesting thirst-quenching beer with an astringent very dry finish, very distinctive hoppy fruits and good length. Delicious.