Italians that pack a punch

WINE:Italy is a treasure trove of surprising wines and charming favourites

THE LIFE OF a wine critic is not one long bacchanalian feast – true, I receive plenty of invitations to wine-tastings, but I rarely have time to attend many. However, earlier this year, I enjoyed a wonderful lunch in the engaging company of Enrico Fantasia, who looks after the wine side of Sheridans Cheesemongers. We sat outside Eden restaurant in Dublin’s Temple Bar, where sommelier Sean Gargaono has put together a short but really interesting list of wines, many of them supplied by Fantasia.

We started with one of my favourite summer aperitifs, a glass of Moscato d’Asti; then on to a real oddity, a red Lambrusco, served with smoked duck breast and smoked cheese, followed by another very Italian wine, Barbera, which had the acidity to cut through the rich fattiness of a roast belly of pork. I came away thinking, yet again, that Italy has the most amazing treasure trove of unusual wines. Yet other than a few well-known names, it still struggles to find a regular place in our wine drinking.

Moscato d'Asti "Cascina Fiori" 2008 Oddero, 5%, €18.95 (€10.50 per half bottle)It is not very cool to like Moscato or Asti Spumante. For a start, they are sweet or sweetish, fizzy and often quite cheap. As with many Italian classics, neither has been helped by the river of cheap and very simple wines that appear under the name. A confession here; I quite like the cheap versions, too. If you must drink something fizzy with your celebration cake, Moscato or Asti could be the perfect choice. Light in alcohol, they refresh the palate and head after a heavy meal, and have enough sugar to match many sweet dishes.

Moscato d'Asti is the posh version of Spumante, and has less sparkle and less sugar. The Cascina Fiori is a delicious, aromatic wine with floral elderflower aromas, juicy grape fruit flavours and a medium-dry finish that seems less so because of the refreshing acidity. At five per cent alcohol, it makes a perfect aperitif, or dessert wine. Stockist:Sheridans Cheesemongers (Galway and Carnaross, Co Meath); The Corkscrew, Dublin, or e-mail Enrico at grapecircus@gmail.com

Lambrusco Reggiano Rosso "Assolo" Medici Ermete, 11.5%, €14-€15Lambrusco does not have a great reputation. The massive quantities of dirt-cheap wine that is sold under the name is one reason Italian wine has had such a poor reputation in the past. However, there has always been real Lambrusco, which harks back to the days when not all wines fermented naturally to full dryness.

Lambrusco frequently stayed off-dry and pétillant and it should be the Beaujolais of Italy. It is made to quaff in large quantities, preferably with rich charcuterie or something equally fatty.

The Assolo has delicious light, sappy, raspberry fruits, good acidity and a light sparkle. It is balanced, refreshing and, above all, interesting. If you are not close to any of the stockists below, Marks Spencer also does a tasty version at €12.49. Stockists:Sheridans Cheesemongers; Mitchell Son (CHQ and Glasthule, Co Dublin ), or grapecircus@gmail.com

Proprietà Sperino Costa della Sesia DOC, "Uvaggio" 2006, 13%, €30Paolo de Marchi makes superbly elegant wines at Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico, including an excellent Vin Santo. However, his family comes from Lesona in northern Piedmont, a region that once produced large quantities of wine, but which had virtually died out until de Marchi came along.

He is convinced that the acidic soils of the region can produce fine wines. Using primarily the Nebbiolo grape (called Spanna locally), he has fashioned a series of superb, distinctive mineral-laden wines that are both captivating and utterly different.

The Uvaggio is pale in colour, with a lovely fragrant nose of redcurrants and violets, a smooth palate of summer fruits, and a long, dry finish that is deceptively tannic. I would try this with mushroom risotto or lighter roasts. The Uvaggio is a blend of 60 per cent Nebbiolo, 15 per cent Croatina and 13 per cent Vespolina, all local varieties. Also look out for the white Erbaluce di Caluso, an equally individual wine. Stockists:Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin

Vin Santo 2001 Isole e Olena, 13.5%, €44.95 per half bottleVin Santo (or holy wine) is made in several regions of Italy, but is quintessentially Tuscan. Visitors who drop around to see friends will often be offered a Santinoinstead of a cup of tea as a pick-me-up. It is also traditionally served chilled at the end of a meal, with biscotti or cantucci.

Vin Santo is made by the appassimento method. The grapes are laid out on straw mats or hung on hooks for three to six months to dry. The juice is then poured into small barrels, where it is sealed with cement, and left to ferment and age for a minimum of three but often many more years. Done well, it is an exquisite sweet wine, with plenty of refreshing acidity to counter the rich raisined fruits.

The Isole e Olena Vin Santo has a beautiful seam of acidity to counter the elegant caramel and raisin fruits, with a finish that seems to go on forever. Serve instead of dessert with or without biscotti. Stockists:64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Sweeney's, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, Co Dublin; Avoca Handweavers, branches nationwide.

TWO UNDER TWELVE

Araldica Barbera d'Asti La Crima 2006, Italy, 13%, €11For a long time, the Barbera grape was an also-ran to the majestic Nebbiolo, found only in the poorer, north-facing vineyards. But once it was planted in better sites, and treated with respect, the results were impressive. Good Barbera has a vibrant colour, vivid fresh blackcurrant and dark cherry fruits, with a lively acidity, and a bone-dry finish. As with the Reggiano above, it cuts the rich fattiness of salami and other charcuterie, belly of pork, or lighter pasta dishes. The La Crima has lovely, juicy, light blackcurrant and dark cherry fruits. Stockists:Next Door, Rathangan; Keller's, Roscrea; Harvest, Galway; Daly's, Boyle; Next Door, Enniscorthy; Red Island, Skerries; Bin No 9. Goatstown, Dublin; Listons, Camden Street, Dublin; The Country Basket, Limerick; Gibney's, Malahide; McCabe's, Blackrock; Fahy's, Ballina; Holland's, Bray; Market 57, Westport; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Searson's, Monkstown; Next Door, Glanmire; Mac's, Limerick; Next Door, Salthill

Nerello Mascalese 2008, Sicily, 13%, €7.99Nerello Mascalese is one of a string of indigenous Sicilian grape varieties that have emerged in recent years. Some are amazingly good, others are merely interesting. I suspect Nerello Mascalese falls into the latter category, being mainly used to add colour and alcohol to blends, and often found in the exciting wines of Mount Etna. However, this inexpensive wine is well worth trying. Ripe, easy-drinking cherry fruits, with a hint of spice and a rounded finish. Stockist:Marks Spencer

DIARY DATES

KELLY’S RESORT Hotel in Rosslare, Co Wexford is holding its annual autumn wine evenings from November 1st to 6th. Highlights include Vincent Pierre of Domaine de la Vougeraie, one of the top estates in Burgundy, and John MacDonald of the Australian Wine Bureau. Contact Pauline Power on 053-9132114.

ENOWINE IS running a sale in its IFSC shop in Dublin 1. Prices on a range of Bordeaux have been reduced by 15-40 per cent.

jwilson@irishtimes.com