Class in a glass

LVMH’s portfolio contains a number of vineyards whose names are worth droppingin your local off-licence

THE NAME Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy is as familiar to those in the fashion and perfume businesses (and probably stockbrokers, too) as to those involved in wine. LVMH has one of the greatest collections of luxury brands in the world, a hoard that includes Christian Dior, Guerlain, Kenzo, Donna Karan and a host of others. They are also major players in the Champagne market with names such as Moët Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Dom Perignon, Krug and Mercier. In addition, they can now claim ownership of the world’s greatest sweet wine, Château d’Yquem. It is less-widely known that they have a string of high-quality wineries dotted around the globe, some producing very good wines.

A few weekends ago, a team of five winemakers and viticulturists visited Ballymaloe House and Cookery School to conduct a wine and food tasting with the assistance of Rory O’Connell, one of the most talented and unassuming chefs on this island. I met the visitors and tasted the wines on show.

Green Point

Set up in 1986 by Dr Tony Jordan, one of the most formidable intellects in Australian winemaking, this is one of the great producers of Oz. Although based in the Yarra Valley, one of the cooler parts of Australia, Green Point (soon to be re-branded Chandon) sources grapes from a wide variety of cool climate vineyards around the country, including Tasmania. Winemaker Matt Steele is now responsible for a series of utterly reliable, and sometimes exciting wines.

The sparkling wines are the real stars, but they also make some very fine still wines, including a Chardonnay and a Shiraz. The sparkling wines, made by the same method as Champagne, using the same three grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) are all excellent, including my favourite, the vintage fizz. They are not the cheapest New World sparkling wines, but are certainly among the very best.

As with many Australian wineries, Green Point has excellent visitor facilities in its Yarra Valley winery, some 50km from the city of Melbourne.

Cloudy Bay

Here is the problem with Cloudy Bay Sauvignon: as one of the most sought-after iconic wines of the world, you expect fireworks. From its first vintage in 1985, the Sauvignon wowed the palates of all who tasted it, an explosive wine packed full of scintillating gooseberry green pepper and lime fruits. Within a short period of time, it was recognised as one of the finest expressions of the Sauvignon grape in the world. But, after a number of years, it became apparent that you could have too much of a good thing. Drink a glass and your palate was reeling from the onslaught, begging for something less demanding. The winemakers at Cloudy Bay obliged, toning down the particularly overt character, and now produce a more subtle wine. Fewer fireworks, more refinement.

As a result, Cloudy Bay is not quite as memorable as before. The wine is still very good, and does not lack class. However, there are a number of other Marlborough Sauvignons from producers such as Seresin, Mahi, Huia, Craggy Range, the single vineyard Villa Maria wines and others that are just as good. Not being in the same demand, they don’t cost quite so much. Having said that, the Cloudy Bay Sauvignon is still a pretty good wine, and the one that everybody wants.

The rest of the portfolio tends to be overlooked, but the barrel-fermented Chardonnay is good and rich and the Pelorus is one of the finest New World sparkling wines.

Cape Mentelle

Cape Mentelle was one of the first wineries to be set up in the Margaret River in western Australia. It was founded by David Hohnen, who was also responsible for Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. Both wineries are now part of Moët estates. The original plan was to use Bordeaux grape varieties; Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the reds, Sauvignon and Semillon for the whites, and these are still the grapes that seem to work best. The Cabernet Sauvignon is always full of succulent blackcurrant fruits, with fine tannins, and the ground-breaking Sauvignon/ Sémillon is a match for most of New Zealand Sauvignons. The latter and the Cabernet Merlot are the best-value wines.

Terrazas de los Andes

Back in 1959, Moët set up a winery to produce sparkling wines in Argentina, part of a string of such enterprises around the world. The results were never widely available in Ireland, but occasional glimpses were interesting. Then in 1999, they began producing a range of still wines, under the name Terrazas de los Andes. I have only tasted the three Malbecs, but they are all pretty good.

The Afincado is a superb wine, rich, powerful and luxurious, but comes in at around €40. The entry-level Terrazas Malbec is good value at €13.80 but the Reserva is the one to go for, a terrific wine at the price. In addition to this winery, Moët is also involved in a joint venture to produce a grand-cru quality wine with the famous Château Cheval-Blanc of St Émilion under the name Cheval des Andes. It can be sourced at around €80 a bottle.

Wines of the Week

Green Point Brut NV, 12.5%, €25.99One of the best New World bottles of fizz, this will comfortably outpace most Champagne in the price range. Medium-bodied with light, green fruits, and a subtle biscuity element. There is a lovely creamy centre palate and finish, set off by lively lemon and lime notes.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand, 13.5%, €29.99Tantalising fresh green fruits - light gooseberries and elderflowers, with plenty of broad peach and classic Marlborough lime zest. Lovely, refreshing sophisticated wine. We tried it with a prawn and roast tomato salad at Ballymaloe, which was very good. I would also give it a try with a mild goats' cheese salad.

Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Reserva, Mendoza Argentina 2006, 13.9%, €17.99Full, rounded meaty wine, with attractive, slightly smoky ripe fruits, and a savoury twist on the finish. Something big and red, preferably grilled on a barbecue.

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006, Margaret River, Australia, 14%, €21.79The Cape Mentelle pure Cabernet Sauvignon is reckoned to be one of Australia's finest, but unfortunately costs almost €40 a bottle. The less expensive Cab Merlot has classic, coolish Margaret River fruit with plump, rounded blackcurrant and plum flavours. Lamb would be the first dish to come to mind, but at the Ballymaloe tasting, roast chicken with exotic mushrooms worked very well indeed.

Stockists:All of the above wines are widely available, including Lynch's Glanmire; Barry's Midleton; Super Valu, Carrigaline, Clonakilty, Skibbereen, Fermoy, Midleton; Eurospar, Schull; O'Donovan's, Cork ; Ballymaloe School Shop; Deveney's, Dundrum; Londis, Malahide; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Redmonds', Ranelagh; McCabe's, Blackrock; Sweeney's, Hart's Corner, Dublin; McCambridge's, Galway, Foley's Sligo.

jwilson@irishtimes.com