Chile ups the ante

BEING GOOD VALUE and being cheap is not necessarily the same thing, nor do all wine producers aspire to either. In fact, most go out of their way to avoid both. But with Chile, the two have co-existed happily for some time, which may explain their success in Ireland. We Irish do like Chilean wines. They have succeeded here as in no other country: for most producers we are among their top four export markets, alongside the UK, US and Germany, all countries with far larger populations.

The Chilean wine industry is very American in style – dynamic and determined. Over the Andes, in Argentina, they always seem more laid-back. Having conquered the entry-level end of things a few years back, their next task has been to persuade us to trade up a few euros. They certainly are making real progress at the production end, coming up with wines to fill the large gap between cheap'n'cheerful and expensive icon wines. However, in the current economic climate, people aren't buying. One person's problem is another's advantage, and it should mean that we get better-quality inexpensive wines as the good raw material is downgraded to entry-level.

As winemaker for the 120 range in Santa Rita, Carlos Gatica has a great influence on the wines we drink. We buy 2.4 million bottles of his wine each year.

"Ireland has been a key market for us for a long time," he says, "and we are trying to keep growing. There is a challenge for us in Ireland. Usually once you have had a successful brand in a country for a long time, one of two things can happen to you: people either become bored with it and move on, or it consolidates as a classic. We have the chance to make Santa Rita a classic winery for Irish people."

With this in mind, Santa Rita conducted some in-depth consumer research in this country, and (not surprisingly) discovered that we prefer wines that are lower in alcohol, have less oak and less tannin. In other words, wines with fruit. By and large, I think they have succeeded in coming up with the goods. The latest vintages are light, fruit-driven wines that will appeal to a wide audience.

"We are looking for a fresh fruitiness in our wines, approachable wines that can be drunk on a daily basis, while still respecting the classical conception of wine. The new wines have ripe and round tannins; they taste of the varietal. We have been changing over the past few years. We used to have a lot more tannins and a lot more oak, but that has been phased out over the past few years. Now we have changed our packaging to reflect what is inside.

"For the consumer, now is a very good time to buy," continues Gatica. "We are facing a volume/quality issue. We have big volumes of very good-quality wine, which are difficult to sell. However, in the future, we will have a bigger share of the medium-priced wines. We have diversified as a country – we have started moving towards the south of the country and finding different soils and climates."

The move to new regions has been going on for a few years, although it is not always obvious from the label. Some producers will have a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir from Casablanca, a Cabernet from Maipo, but others rely on the brand name to sell their wine. For the 120 range, Santa Rita sources grapes from Casablanca, Pirque, Leyda and Colchagua and uses them to add certain characters and class to the final wine, which is labelled under the umbrella term Central Valley, which covers just about every vineyard in Chile.

But in the future, like the Australians, most Chileans believe that quality alone is not enough. "Chile's big problem is to find something that you can recognise as 100 per cent Chilean in style," says Gatica. "Chile needs a calling card, something that is good, something that is both Chilean and unique. I think Carmenère helps – it is growing in two digits, and will do better as the vines age. But I think there has to be something unique about our style and the way we make wines. Maybe it will be the sourcing of grapes, or something with the winemakers. In Limari, you will find a unique style of Chardonnay; in Leyda, a unique style of Sauvignon . If those styles are accepted, you will start to see some unique things in Chile."

For so many Irish people, Chile has provided an affordable introduction to wine. At times, they have been criticised as being too industrial, or too similar, accusations that are not without foundation.

However, most of their competitors look in awe at their performance. Despite the current economic climate, most importers report a healthy increase in sales of Chilean wines so far this year. Wines of Chile, which represents the industry here, recently held a tasting of less expensive wines.

There were not too many surprises. Most were decent, well made wines with good fruit and balance. There were a few shockers, and a few stars. Here, I list my own pick of the bunch.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Aconcagua Valley, 13.5%, €10.99This struck me as a classic example of what Chile does with inexpensive Sauvignon – not hugely aromatic, with medium-bodied, rounded pear, and green apple fruits. It could almost be an unoaked Chardonnay. Easy-drinking and good party fare. Stockists: Very widely available, including Callan's, Dundalk; Dunnes Stores; Fresh, Dublin; The Mill, Maynooth; Molloy's; Shevlin's, Rathfarnham; Brady's, Shankhill;

MJ Wines, Dundalk; Gerry’s, Skerries; Quinn’s, Drumcondra; Londis, nationwide; Next Door, Kilkee; Nolan’s, Clontarf; SuperValu, nationwide; Superquinn; O’Brien’s.

Oveja Negra Chardonnay Viognier 2008, Maule Valley, 13.7%, €10.99An attractive, richly textured wine with stewed apples and custard, sprinkled with cinnamon. Needs food, and I reckon mildly spiced chicken would do very nicely. Stockists: Brian Barry's, Midleton; Cellars, Naas Road, Dublin; Deveney's, Dundrum; D6 Wines, Harold's Cross, Dublin; The Alley, Cloyne; Stack's, Listowel.

Cefiro Viña Casablanca Sauvignon 2008, Casablanca Valley, 13.5%, €14.95The cooler Casablanca Valley makes some really vibrant aromatic Sauvignons, and this is a perfect example from one of the best practitioners.

Intense grassy, gooseberry aromas; a cutting, zesty mouthful of lemon and gooseberry fruits, and a long, crisp finish. Stockists: James Nicholson, www.jnwine.com; On the Grapevine, Dalkey: Fahy’s, Ballina; O’Neill’s, South Circular Road, Dublin.

Santa Rita 120 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 13.5%, €10.49This has very attractive pure blackberry fruits and an easy, smooth finish – elegant and moreish at the same time. Good all-rounder, but probably best with lamb cutlets. Stockists: O'Brien's; Dunnes; SuperValu; Centra; Costcutter; Spar; Molloy's; Ardkeen Food Stores, Waterford; Harvest, Moycullen.

Oveja Negra Cabernet Franc/Carmenère 2008, Maule Valley, 14%, €10.99Lightly peppery, with generous dark plum fruits, and a solid dry finish; different and well worth trying with a steak, or some Italian meatballs. Stockists: Brian Barry's, Midleton; Cellars, Naas Road, Dublin; Deveney's, Dundrum; Stack's, Listowel; Cahill's Cork; Moe's, Youghal.

Indomita Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, 14.5%, €14.95 (£7.99 in Northern Ireland)This won an international trophy last month in the Decanter wine awards. It has a rich seductive style that will impress, but never goes over the top, full ripe cassis fruits, with plenty of chocolate and spice, and a good tannic structure coming though on the long finish.

Stockists: McHugh’s, Kilbarrack Road, Dublin; Cellars, Naas Road, Dublin; The Old Stand, Mullingar; Windmill House, Drogheda; Acheson’s, Crumlin, Dublin. Northern Irish stockists include: Bin 34, Castlewellan;

Divine Wines, Coleraine; Roundhouse, Downpatrick. jwilson@irishtimes.com