CONNOISEUR:BEER IS SOMETHING we Irish are rather good at. Think of the world dominance of Guinness; the success of Harp; the popularity of Smithwicks. But as the big brewers continue to dominate a market that, while shrinking, remains vast, there are some little guys hard at work.
The world of microbrewing is not new, but one that is being rediscovered. A new generation of enthusiasts are turning what used to be a cottage industry into something of a cutting-edge force. Where many counties in Ireland would have had small local breweries, the modern economies of scale mean there is now only a handful, scattered about.
The microbrewery craze started on the west coast of the US in the 1970s when drinkers realised how bland mass-produced beer was becoming and looked for something with more depth and character. But the truth is that interesting beers have been brewed in Europe for centuries, and still are. Walk into a bar in Bavaria, for example, and there is no point in asking for a beer. There will be many styles, and many choices within each style.
Despite the current economic climate, the number of microbreweries in Ireland is growing. In a few months we are due to see the emergence of White Gipsy, a new brewery based in Templemore, Co Tipperary. Sadly they will not be up and running in time for the Independent Beer and Whiskey Festival which started on Thursday and will run until April 5th in all the Porterhouse pubs.
This event, now in its sixth year, is the brainchild of Porterhouse owner Oliver Hughes and it allows customers to taste almost all of Ireland’s microbeers under one roof. You can choose from Chiller, Purgatory Pale Ale or Scullions Irish, just three of the 25 beers featured.
Hughes is quick to praise Brian Cowen’s move, more than two years ago, to progressively tax beer brewers, so smaller operators gained an advantage. The Porterhouse, apart from expanding, has almost completed a bottling line which means its beers will soon be available to take home.
At a time of economic uncertainty, he says the smaller brewers are seeing growth as the public focuses on local producers. The festival is also a time for the brewers to get together and discuss the challenges they face. Marketing and distribution remain tough in an industry dominated by large companies with huge spending power.
One of the real challenges facing microbreweries is getting people to taste their product. The beers are often perceived as being niche, and if you are used to a pint of relatively bland fizz, it can come as something of a shock to sip a glass of the Porterhouse’s Red, for example.
This beer has a creamy head and a bright fruity flavour that turns to notes of caramel on the finish. It is long and satisfying, and hard to drink without stopping to consider where the complexity is coming from. The answer is a small brew containing four malts – plain, wheat, chocolate and crystal, combined with Galena, Nugget, East Kent and Goldings hops. It is a drink to savour slowly, something to spend time with. A conversation stopper almost, which may not be what everyone wants.
This festival is a golden opportunity to sip and consider a whole range of Irish beers that hold themselves up in competitions against breweries around the world. Time to raise a glass of the good stuff.
Porterhouses are located in Bray, Glasnevin, Temple Bar and Nassau Street in Dublin and Covent Garden in London. Breweries taking part in the festival include the Porterhouse Brewing Company; Messrs Maguire; Hilden Brewery; Whitewater Brewery; Galway Hooker and Franciscan Well Brewery.