First Look: New Stephen’s Green restaurant makes a glamorous and bold statement

The first thing you notice when you walk into Floritz at 22 St Stephen’s Green is the wallpaper. It’s a bold statement, and with every look you notice something different: the mushrooms, the insects, the flowers. It’s arresting, but grows on you quite quickly, and definitely gives customers a focal point.

The effect is glamorous, with backlit mirrors dotted around the room and a selection of comfortable tables-for-two, booths and banquettes, anchored by a central bar. Floritz, which has a capacity of 70, is located in the building above Cellar 22, and below the nine-bed Townhouse on the Green boutique hotel. All are owned by Ampleforth, owners of the Fitzwilliam Hotels in Dublin and Belfast, and The Bailey.

The food offering is presented as a selection of small and larger plates served as they are ready, and the idea is to share dishes as they arrive. The menu, executed by head chef Matt Fuller, features crudo and sushi, yakitori, bowls, Wagyu and dishes from the hibachi grill, layered with exotic influences. Plenty of Asian accents and far away flavours complement the feel of the restaurant perfectly.

Fuller received classic French training before moving to Spain in 2002, where he says he “fell in love with eating”. Since returning to Ireland in 2010 he has worked in the Fitzwilliam Hotel’s restaurant Citron, was head chef in Conrad Gallagher’s Salon des Saveurs and opened his own restaurant Boqueria in Stoneybatter for a period. He worked most recently at Suesey Street on Fitzwilliam Place.

Rhubarb and strawberry hand pies

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Miso baked salmon with brown rice and Korean salad

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Whole baked cauliflower burrito bowl with refried beans and guacamole

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A couple of months ago, Fuller got a call asking for advice on what chef would fit the vision of Floritz – Asian flavours and influence. Fuller says he had been leaning in this direction in the last few years – “food that doesn’t leave you feeling like you’ve just gone two rounds with Tyson, and light, but powerful flavours”. So he put himself forward, knowing he would “fall in love with this project”.

The menu is Asian themed and everybody should be able to find something they like, regardless of dietary requirements or preferences, he says. “They’re small dishes, they’ll come as they’re ready in the kitchen, so you’ll be able to have that sharing and interaction over the table. We’ve been exposed to that in Ireland for the last maybe 15 years. Why would you go back to meat and two veg? This is exciting and it’s interesting,” Fuller says.

Floritz will open seven days a week for lunch from 12.30-3pm and for dinner from 5.30-10pm. Customers are encouraged to linger after their meal and enjoy drinks from the extensive wine and cocktail lists, curated by general manager and sommelier Victor Nedelea and mixologist Jain Ananth. Ananth considers the bar a “liquid kitchen” where he can work with flavours alongside the food.

“It doesn’t matter what you drink, it has to be made right, and experienced in the best possible way,” Ananth says. “If you want to make an Aperol spritz you can make one at home. If you’re coming all the way here and having one, it should at least be the best Aperol possible.”

Nedelea expects Floritz will be a glamorous, adventurous destination, and says he has never been so excited to open a place. “We want our guests to sit down and enjoy it, not to be rushed at the table, not to be moved ... they can enjoy themselves, have a few more cocktails and nobody’s going to throw you out,” Nedela says.

The drinks menu also has a strong Asian accent, featuring sake and Japanese whisky, among the usual classics. The wine list has about 130 wines, starting at €30-€32 a bottle, many of which will be available to order by the glass, including one of four champagnes – a rosé – at €18 a glass.

“I don’t think I’ve come across a manager as supportive as Victor in 30 years of a career, and that’s the essence of it. Get the food right, get the team right, look after each other and look after your guest, and that lovely hospitality that’s just oozing,” Fuller says.

The restaurant will be taking reservations and walk-ins, and most cocktails will be priced at €16, except for some classics which will be a lower price. Nedelea says he wants people to try the cocktails and not be discouraged by differing prices.

The dinner menu features yakitori priced from €8-€25, chef specials priced from €28-€43 and a fried/tempura section priced from €6.50-€28 (this includes rice chips with dragon sauce). Bowls are priced from €12-€31, while sushi pricing will depend on the selection and will change based on market price, but a mix of nigiri starts from €10 for two pieces and maki costs €18 for eight pieces.

The lunch menu is smaller but features many of the same dishes as the dinner menu, all priced between €6.50-€29.50, or you can pick one dish from each section for €30. Both menus are subject to change.

Floritz opens to the public from Tuesday, June 11th.