It’s all systems go on a building site just outside Abbeyleix, Co Laois, the home of 33-year-old chef Cúán Greene’s hotly anticipated restaurant and guesthouse.
Called Ómós, the concept is centred on connection, to place, to people and to food. Like the Irish word after which it is named, it is about reverence and respect.
That respect starts with the careful restoration and conversion of Victorian-era Millbrook House and its adjoining stables into a luxury 16-bedroom guesthouse. Though it’s still very much a work in progress (there is no roof, with builders working under a protective tent), Greene’s vision is taking shape.
Light wells have been added to flood light deep into the interior, while the original stairs have been moved from the front to the rear of the property. Connecting doors between the livingrooms will allow guests to flow easily between spaces.
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When complete, the guesthouse will be furnished in a modern vernacular style, embracing the Ireland of today. Some bedrooms will feature statement beds and baths, while artwork will be sourced from upcoming artists or loaned from the extensive network of supporters that Greene has assembled behind him.
Exiting Millbrook House, guests will walk across natural gardens designed to reflect and breathe with the seasons before arriving at the restaurant. The use of stones from old farmhouse buildings and adoption of a layout which reflects a traditional Irish farmyard mean that this brand new copper-roofed building already feels as if it’s part of the landscape.
The main building will also house a preservation and wine cellar, a bakery, spacious staff space and a separate test kitchen.
In a move that reflects Greene’s commitment to his team’s wellbeing, the adjoining staff lounge will have the exact same view out over the green fields and gardens as a lounge where guests can relax before or after dinner.
As Greene walks through the shell of what will be the 32-seat diningroom, he points out where the open kitchen islands will be located. Chefs will work within the diningroom, allowing for a close connection between guests, chefs and their food.
Vertical roof windows illuminate the 14-seat private diningroom which will open for standard bookings when not reserved. To one side, windows overlook the replanted walled garden while to the other side lies the mill pond after which the guesthouse is named.
Builders will be on-site until March next year, followed by the interior fit out. It will be close to May by the time Greene expects to fire up the kitchens in the run-up to a planned June opening.
Meanwhile, work is already starting on the preservation programme. Supported by expert Johnny Drains, whom Greene met at the Food on the Edge symposium, it will produce a larder of “hero preserves”. These will include brown bread and Beamish miso, or dillisk and smoked haddock garum, which will be used in the restaurant.
Having spent time at Michelin star restaurants Noma and Bastible (where Greene was head chef), Greene has developed a strong philosophy about sourcing ingredients.
“Ómós will use products from people we know and respect. There are great flavours in the locality, but we don’t need to restrict ourselves to the nearest 10km,” he says.
One such example is the fresh fruit that Greene will import from a citrus farm in the Languedoc, a place where he spent time as a child and to which he returned on his recent honeymoon with wife Eva.
Still in his early 30s but an industry veteran, Greene exudes a calmness that belies his nervousness about the immense undertaking that is Ómós. He admits that he is “bricking it”, but is grateful for the mentorship and guidance his investors have shared.
He is backed in this undertaking by John Collison of Stripe, Daire Hickey of 150Bond and Samuel Dennigan of Strong Roots, among others, but Greene is the majority investor and keenly feels the responsibility.
When asked about the budget for this ambitious project, Greene says: “It’s a lot but it’s not enough. We’re working with design houses such as ASCA who truly see the value in what we are creating to cater to the curious and are willing to strike deals in order to collaborate with us.”
Right now, Greene’s priority is to hire key staff including a general manager and restaurant manager. “The biggest challenge I’ve faced to date is a form of isolation. I need to find those key people with whom I can share the ambition. On the other hand, I’m living my life’s dream right now building this chef-led project. I pinch myself that it’s really happening.”
Ómós is scheduled to open in June next year, with rooms starting from €350. Prices for the tasting menu and wine pairings are in progress and will be on a par with other fine-dining experiences across the country. With staff’s work environment in mind, Ómós will open five nights a week, from Tuesday to Saturday, with guests checking out on Sunday morning.
