Revealed: Ireland’s best young chef for 2024

The best of emerging professional talent created two dishes using Skeaghanore duck and McNally heritage beetroot and carrots

Judges (seated) Domini Kemp, Conor Halpenny, Gareth Mullins, Kenneth Culhane (and standing) Stephen Hayes and Mark Birchall with winner Victor Erisay (centre) at the Euro-Toques Ireland Best Young Chef 2024

Victor Erisay of Chapter One restaurant has been named Euro-Toques Ireland Young Chef of the Year for 2024. The young Frenchman was one of seven talented young chefs from leading Irish restaurants competing for the prestigious award. The announcement was made at a gala dinner in the InterContinental hotel in Dublin’s Ballsbridge on Sunday night and was the culmination of a six-month judging process.

Earlier in the day the finalists – all aged under 28 – were given three hours to prepare two dishes reflecting this year’s theme, “Inspiring Regeneration”, adhering to the Euro-Toques philosophy of using local, artisanal and seasonal ingredients. They were tasked with crafting two original dishes featuring Skeaghanore duck and its offal, McNally heritage beetroot, and heritage carrots. They were then judged under three categories: execution and work practice, taste and flavour, and presentation.

Erisay, who was mentored by Chapter One chef patron Mickael Viljanen, presented a starter of whipped Skeaghanore duck offal parfait, heritage beetroot, cassis, smoked duck stroopwafel and a main course of whole roasted Skeaghanore duck, carrot and bergamot purée, glacé heritage carrots, clementine and sauce à l’orange.

Chef Victor Erisay’s winning main dish: whole roasted Skeaghanore duck, carrot & bergamot purée, glacé heritage carrots, clementine, sauce à l'orange
Chef Victor Erisay’s winning starter of whipped Skeaghanore duck offal parfait, heritage beetroot, cassis, smoked duck stroopwafel

The other six young finalists were Anna Hevers (Goldie), Bryan Bridgeman (Homestead Cottage), David Harte (The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s), Marcell Pálfalusi (Thyme Restaurant), Nell McCarthy (dede) and Tom Donohoe (Orwell Road). After the seven finalists were announced in June they journeyed in Ireland and overseas to experience and see artisan produce at its best. In Ireland they toured North Dublin and the Boyne Valley, visiting McNally Family Farm, Ballymakenny Farm in Co Louth, Fairy Trees Winery in Dunleer and Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese. In the UK they enjoyed a lavish lunch at Mark Birchall’s Michelin two-star Moor Hall in Lancashire.

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The judging panel included Michelin-starred chefs Mark Birchall (Restaurant Moor Hall, UK) Kenneth Culhane (The Dysart Petersham, UK) and Stephen Hayes (The Bishop’s Buttery, Co Tipperary), alongside industry leaders Gareth Mullins (Anantara, The Marker, Dublin), Conor Halpenny (Square), and Domini Kemp (Lottie’s). The kitchen was steered by Kwanghi Chan (Bites by Kwanghi), and former winner Shauna Murphy added her expertise. The award was presented by La Rousse Foods.

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At the gala dinner, Manuela Spinelli, head of community at Euro-Toques Ireland, said: “It’s truly inspiring to see how many young chefs, past and present, stay actively engaged with the Euro-Toques community. Former winners and finalists, now thriving in their careers, were here tonight, showcasing the strong bonds and support that fuel our success.”

The celebration dinner at the InterContinental was prepared by a selection of Ireland’s leading chefs: Graham Neville (Dax), Sunil Ghai (Pickle), Ahmet Dede (dede), Keelan Higgs (Variety Jones) and Shauna Murphy (2023 winner). Former winners include chef Neven Maguire, and Mark Moriarty, who went on to win the world San Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition in 2015.

Madeleine Lyons

Madeleine Lyons

Madeleine Lyons is Food & Drink Editor of The Irish Times