Goldie
128 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2398720, goldie.ie
Cork has the second-largest natural harbour in the world, so it makes sense that one of Ireland’s best seafood restaurants is right on its doorstep. Aishling Moore’s whole fish cookery means nothing is wasted and Goldie shines like a beacon in the south. Humble pollock is elevated with jalapeño and blood orange, while pan roast cod comes with curry leaf noisette. The renovated upstairs diningroom can be booked for private dining, and now we can all try Moore’s recipes at home thanks to her first cookbook, Whole Catch. Joanne Cronin
Kai
22 Sea Road, Galway; 091-526003, kairestaurant.ie
New Zealander Jess Murphy and her husband Dave opened Kai restaurant in 2011. The approach is casual during the day, offering a simple revolving lunch menu, and in the evening there’s a more serious restaurant vibe. Dinner could include Connemara crab with kohlrabi and roe, Connemara lamb with asparagus, and agnolotti del plin with Connemara surf clams. Their Michelin green star reflects their sustainable approach, building on the circular economy. Corinna Hardgrave
La Fougère at Knockranny House Hotel
Knockranny, Westport, Co Mayo; 098-28600, knockrannyhousehotel.ie/dining/la-fougere
Seamus Commons worked as Derry Clarke’s head chef in L’Ecrivain during the period when it first landed its Michelin star. That meticulous attention to detail and ability to get the balance just right has stayed with him and you see it in his classically based dishes in Knockranny’s La Fougère restaurant, where he has headed up the kitchen for many years. He has a magical way with fish and in the colder months game season is always a treat. CH
Paradiso
16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939, paradiso.restaurant
For 30 years Denis Cotter’s Paradiso has led the charge for vegetarian cooking, inspiring many disciples across the globe but never bettered. Chef Miguel Frutos now heads up the kitchen, producing dishes that maintain the Paradiso vibe but also reflect current tastes, such as carrot escabeche with buffalo labneh and pickled fennel. Paradiso works closely with main vegetable supplier Gortnanain Farm to reflect seasonality, and the all natural wine list perfectly maintains the ethos started all those years ago. JC
Beauty & the Beast review: On the way home, younger audience members re-enact scenes. There’s no higher recommendation
Matt Cooper: I’m an only child. I’ve always been conscious of not having brothers or sisters
A Dublin scam: After more than 10 years in New York, nothing like this had ever happened to me
Patrick Freyne: I am becoming a demotivational speaker – let’s all have an averagely productive December
The Tannery
10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; 058-45420. tannery.ie
Very much a family run restaurant, you are likely to see the next generation, Paul and Máire Flynn’s two girls, helping out with the service if you visit The Tannery during the holidays. You can go a la carte or opt for the set menus which are always good value – the early bird is €40, the dinner menu is €68 and Sunday lunch is €39. If you want something more casual, there are small plates chalked on the blackboard in the wine bar downstairs. CH
Vaughan’s Anchor Inn
Liscannor, Co Clare; 065-7081548, vaughans.ie
A multigenerational family story, you will find James Vaughan heading up the kitchen in Liscannor, while his father Denis is head chef at Vaughan’s on the Pier in nearby Lahinch. Even their fish batter has pedigree, coming as it does from a 22-year-old sourdough starter. Seafood is landed daily and while the rollicking bowls of seafood chowder, classic fish and chips and perfectly cooked fish shine, there is also a wide range for all eaters. Stop at Spooneys on Lahinch pier afterwards for some ice cream. JC
Wine & Brine
59 Main Street, Moira, Co Down; +44 28 92610500, wineandbrine.co.uk
Chris and Davina McGowan’s spot is always worth a detour when travelling between Dublin and Belfast (doubly helped by the presence of Peter Hannan’s wonderful butcher shop). Since Chris returned to Northern Ireland in 2015, they have forged a style that is all their own, bringing a unique edge to his sharp classical execution using fabulous northern ingredients. Think twice baked three cheese soufflé, sesame prawn toast with Portavogie prawn crudo and squid à la Greque. JC
